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Town of Taos and Surrounding AreaTaos, "the Place of the Red Willow" in the native Tiwa of the Pueblo Indians, has long been the rendezvous of the Southern Sangre de Cristo Mountains and of the various cultures that call this region home. The Spanish referred to it as "Remote Beyond Compare" and it is for that reason it has remained to this day, unspoiled. Artists since have gathered at the foot of the Sangre De Cristo to take advantage of the high desert light and how it plays along the peaks and down into the Rio Grande Rift valley. The Taos Society of Artists, as well as Georgia O'Keefe, Ansel Adams, Paul Strand, and Dorthea Lange had an affection for the "Taos Light" and the extraordinary diversity of landforms and cultures in northern New Mexico.
Photo: Jay Foley working "Letting Go" in the Bat Cave. Photo by Bob D'Antonio Local Climbing ResourcesGuide Service - Mountain Skills climbingschoolusa.com/index.html Cycling ResourcesGuidebook Gearing Up Bicycle Shop Taos Cyclery Recommended MTB Rides South Boundry Trail Others Hospital/Medical Care Holy Cross HospitalHoly Cross Hospital 1397 Weimer Road Taos, New Mexico 87571 Phone: 575-758-8883 South of Town. Turn East on Canon Bypass (look for Chevron at corner of Paseo Del Pueblo and Canon Bypass). About 1/2 mile to 2nd round-about for Weimer Road turn Right (South) to Hospital (Approx 1 mile) Taos Search and RescueHigh Angle Unit: contact 911 and ask for State Police to dispatch TSAR (Directo: Richard McCracken of the Direct Northwest Face on Half Dome, 5.10 A3+ VI 5.13c/d. FA 1963 with Royal Robbins. 1963 Robbins Route, Mount Proboscis, Logan Mountains, NWT, Canada with Jim McCarthy, Layton Kor and Royal Robbins. 1964 North Face Mount Hooker, Wind River Range, Wyoming, USA. With Royal Robbins and Charlie Raymond) Eats: The World Cup Cafe, on the Taos Plaza, has the best espresso in town. In Arroyo Seco, the Taos Cow is the place for java, lunchables, and ice cream. For muy delicioso New Mexican fare, Orlando’s, in north Taos, serves some of the state’s best chile (say, “Go Christmas,” when ordering, for half-green and half-red). Willing to spend a little more? Check out The Love Apple, built in an old, chapel just east of Taos and serving fresh, locally grown, mouthwatering meals (try the quesadilla with egg). Doc Martin's in the Taos Inn is a must for breakfast or dinner. Ask Bob D'antonio for his recommendations for a meal or climb, he manages the place. Camping: Most crags have camping on National Forest and BLM land. Particularly primo are the improved Orilla Verde Recreation Area campgrounds, right along the Rio Grande —$7 per night, blm.gov/nm, (575) 751-4899. Hot showers and check with the camp host if you can use the hottub. www.blm.gov/nm/st/en/prog/recreation/taos/orilla_verde.html Lodging: Why rough it when you can stay in a lux adobe? Donna Longo, Jay Foley’s wife, rents two vacation homes in Arroyo Seco: Casa Seco and Casita Seco, both on an acre of pasture overlooking the Taos Valley. Prices vary according to season and number of people — climbtaos.com/rental.html, (575) 776-2222. Or enjoy the mountain air below El Salto peak at www.walkingrainguesthouse.com. The iconic Abominable Snowmansion, in Arroyo Seco, offers private and dormitory-style rooms, teepees, and camping — snowmansion.com, (575) 776-8298. Rest-Day Activities: World-class fly fishing on the Cimarron and Rio Grande, as well as kayaking and rafting on class 2 to 5 rapids; marinate in mineral water at Ojo Caliente hot springs, about an hour southeast Taos; unwind with massage or yoga (Foley recommends amaniyoga.com, [575] 776-8075); hike or bike the myriad mountain trails; ski Taos Ski Valley; go fly fishing thesolitaryangler.com, or visit Taos Pueblo, home to about 150 Taos Indians. First built more than 1,000 years ago, this World Heritage Site is the oldest continuously inhabited community in the United States — taospueblo.com, (575) 758-1028.
Getting to TaosFrom Albuquerque: I-25 to Santa Fe; exit on 599 north to by-pass Santa Fe; Hwy. 285 to Hwy. 68 to Taos. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Taos Area:
Chicken Heads 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Serpentine Crack 5.8 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Bear Mountain Picnic Massacre (Original 5.8) 5.8 Trad, 3 pitches, 310 feet Questa Dome : The Legs
Mama Jugs 5.8 PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 190 feet Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Clean Green Dream 5.9 Trad, 140 feet Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Tijerina 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Utopian Vistas : (L2) Hopper's Hangover Wall
You Are Fired! 5.10a PG13 Trad, 4 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III Tooth of Time
Better Red Than Dead 5.10b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Cowboy Bob's Chickenhead Delight 5.10 Trad, 160 feet Tres Piedras : Middle Rock
Serpent Face 5.10c PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Crack In The Cosmic Egg 5.10+ Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet Wild and Scenic : Ground Up Wall
Chomping at the Bit 5.11a Sport, 70 feet Utopian Vistas : (L5) Good Craic Wall
Question of Balance 5.11- PG13 Trad, 5 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III Questa Dome : Questa Dome
Holthouse to Hell 5.11- Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Another Pretty Face 5.11 PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II Questa Dome : Questa Dome
Wrendevous 5.11b/c Trad, 80 feet Vista Verde Crag : 6. Wayne Manor
Techweenie 5.11+ Sport, 75 feet Tres Piedras : Mosaic Rock
Afterburner 5.12a Sport, 90 feet Vista Verde Crag : 4. Afterburner Face
Mariposa 5.12- Trad, 80 feet Vista Verde Crag : 6. Wayne Manor
Hopper's Hangover 5.12 Sport, 80 feet Utopian Vistas : (L2) Hopper's Hangover Wall
Featured Route For Taos Area
Better Red Than Dead 5.10b PG13 NM : Taos Area : ... : Mosaic Rock
Quintessential TP climbing with the crux moves above your gear make "Better Red Than Dead" a bit intimidating. My first time I was a bit spooked, a couple more recent times, it didn't seem as bad. One of the more rewarding 5.10s here.Face climb up to right-angling crack. Step onto the slab above to clip the 1st bolt, slab up and right to the 2nd bolt. From here, sneak up 5.10 slab/face straight up to a seam (no pro there), then a thank-god left-angling finger crack. You probably don't want ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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