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Tantalus Wall
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Tantalus Wall 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a C0

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Aid, 8 pitches, 600', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a C0 [details]
FA: Peter Croft, Craig Thomson 1982
Page Views: 1,652
Submitted By: Philip Scoles on Oct 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Jon on pitch 6 of the superb piton scarred finger ...

Description 

A distinctive crack line from the base of the Tantalus wall using french ethics. 1st pitch: 11C. Take the left hand crack to the impeccable Yosemite Crack. Classic Ofwidths take you to the top of the 3rd pitch (10A). Easy 4th to Tantalus ledge (5.8). A small finger crack leads to the cedar tree (11B). Use AO bolts Tensioning to the base of the headwall crack system (11A+4pa). Climb two 5.11's to the top of the headwall. Gear to 4 1/2" for the hand cracks and ofwidth.

Location 

Scramble up the bullethead gully right below the Yosemite pinnacle.

Protection 

Gear to 4 1/2" for the hand cracks and ofwidth.
Some bolts.


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By Chris Elliott
May 3, 2016

We took a BD #4, #5 and #6 for this climb along with the standard doubles and extras in finger sizes. A #6 should almost definitely be included in the rack for this climb. You could probably leave the #4 at home and bring 2 x #5s and maybe 2x #6s.
The whole route is a burly number (possibly a sandbag) featuring razor-thin pinscars for your fingers (possibly good locks available for small-fingered ladies). Don't go up there expecting .11c Crime of the Century finger locks unless you know how to aid efficiently with slings lol.
Also, the crux of the .11b corner pitch below the headwall involves some difficult off width action which you probably won't hear about otherwise. Hence having an arsenal of #5s and #6s for the second to carry when not needed.
Awesome position.

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