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Nouveau Reach aka Jeff's Third Climb aka Photo Art 
Pass The Tanning Butter 
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Tanning Butter 
Too Dumb to Sleep In 
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Whole Lot of Drunk 

Tanning Butter 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, 1998
Page Views: 483
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 21, 2001
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Description 

Immediately right of Killian's Red is a boulder problem that leads into a climb. Wrap yourself around the bulge moving left from a good edge beneath the bulge. Swim over the bulge, staying left, on worsening feet. Above the bulge, step back right and enjoy the climb. There are still some good moves to be had, but nothing at the level of the opening sequence. Interesting and powerful.


Protection 

Half a dozen quickdraws and a rope.



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By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 28, 2008

A variation allows the fun climbing w/o the low crux. Start left just as for Killian's, up two bolts and then traverse right above the bulge mentioned. A fun 10+.

By Furthermore
May 8, 2012

There is a wasp nest between the 2nd and 3rd bolt as of 05/2012. It is within 5 inches of a mandatory hand hold. They didn't bother us, but then again the nest was small. It made the lead a bit spicier for me, since I am scared sh(*less of wasps/bees.