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Tangled up in Blue 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bill Robins, Charlie Edmunds 1988
Season: year round
Page Views: 1,040
Submitted By: brucelacroix on Apr 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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BETA PHOTO: Tangled up in Blue is the corner crack just to the...

Description 

Jam and stem up the left crack to a bolted anchor.
Good pro.

Location 

Sunshine Wall (center) between Narlux and Peaceful
Warrior.

Protection 

Gear to 3.5


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By Rohan Balakrishnan
Nov 2, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 
After climbing this route yesterday, I discovered that there are no chains or rap rings attached to the bolts at the top of the route.
By AndySkol
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 10, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 
Climbed this Sunday 11/09/2014.

Regarding Rohan Balakrishnan's condition report of 11/02/2014 saying that there are no chains or rap rings on the anchors, while technically correct there is nothing out of the ordinary - the anchors are Metolius Rap Hangers, which are intended to be rappelled off of. I noticed nothing untoward.

Double 2s and 3s were nice, but I didn't want for more, and hauled a 4 to the top for no reason, though I am sure I could have found a place to stick it.
By Rohan Balakrishnan
Mar 9, 2014

Extra #2 camalots are useful on this route.
By SHOPE
From: Tacoma, WA
Apr 29, 2014

So much fun! Better than the average Vantage climb IMO. 3.5 stars and rounding up.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
May 15, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

this is one of the best 5.9 cracks at Vantage. A good lead for 5.9 leaders, but I hesitate to say good for new leaders because most trad leading at Vantage is a little sketchy and this is not as straight forward as a splitter crack. Double cams #2,3 and #4 camalot and also hex's can be useful. This is shorter but harder then Crossing the threshold.