|Type:||Aid, 18 pitches, 2500', Grade VI|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A3+ [details]|
|FA:||Charlie Porter And John-Paul de St. Croix, 1973|
|Submitted By:||Rusty Reno on Jan 27, 2008|
|Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Tangerine Trip||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Jun 10, 2009
Climbed this 5/22-5/24/09. We decided on the C3 version. This route currently goes at 5.8 C3/A2. Tons of bomber rivets thanks to the ASCA where the biggest whippers used to be taken on this route historically.
If you don't want beta, then don't read this.
3 ea. .3"- 2"
1 BD #3
1 BD #4 Glad I had the number 4.
2 Cam hooks (medium)
1 Bat hook (Real bathook not the one on a talon)
1 Grappling Hook (Large hook much more necessary than cliffhanger)
1 Cliffhanger (medium hook)
1.5 Sets of nuts, micro offsets useful.
10 Rivet hangers. There are bolts to clip through rivet sections, don't have to leave many except for directionals.
Heads: 2 sm., 2 med., 2 lg. I could hook around 2-3 blown heads, needed to place one on the ascent.
A2 version: bring a 3/4" and a 1" saw off.
A few other KBs and LAs might be nice if fixed gear is blown, 1 RURP.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Feb 26, 2010
|Excellent trip report: terragalleria.com/mountain/inf...|
By Ryan Huetter
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Oct 9, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C2-
|Easy climbing, steep hauling, and the ability to make some fast time on the bolt ladders make this the easiest route over on the right side. Certainly not the best climbing though. Zodiac is definitely a step up in difficulty, but WAAAAAY better.|
By Ranger Matt
From: Yosemite NP
Nov 1, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Climbed this a few days ago.
A huge thanks from me goes out to ASCA on this one.
95% of all the rivets and bolts have been replaced.
We spent 3 nights on the wall after fixing to 4th pitch.
Great exposure with challenging but not too dangerous aid.
We placed ~4 pins the whole route. sawed-angles and blue-yellow metolius offsets cams were our MVPs.
By Eric Foster
From: Columbus, GA
Feb 7, 2012
|I believe that Erik Sloan did most of the replacing of rivets and bolts on this one about 4/5? years ago with a buddy of mine. Props to him as he has probably replaced over 1000 bolts and rivets on the captain and other rocks in the valley over the years.|
By Tito Krull 1
Jan 7, 2016
|Climbed last fall, with the Virgina start up to pitch 4. we did this route with minimal hammering, one thing i have noticed is people are too quick to bring out the hammer on this thing, almost every piece is fixed where you would need to hammer! The Trip is a very forced line, many ladders of rivits and bolts, in many pitches the true line would go with some VERY serious heading in no crack corner systems, but the bolt ladders make this route a great into to STEEP aid climbing at the grade. the cruxes are short and have bolts either before or after where its tricky. a lower out line can be useful, most pitches that traverse are steep enough to just cut the pigs loose and let em fly. but there was one pitch where the rope would drag over rock pretty harshly. we hauled on a 60m rope and tied it in short to use as lower line. CLIMB ON!!!|