|Type: ||Aid, 18 pitches, 2500', Grade VI|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a A2-3 [details]|
|FA: ||Charlie Porter And John-Paul de St. Croix, 1973|
|Page Views: ||4,281|
|Submitted By: ||Rusty Reno on Jan 27, 2008|
|Good Page?||1 person likes this page. Your opinion: |
Al Bartlett & Steve Eddy, 3rd ascent of Tangarine ...
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I'm not the person to describe this route, because I did it a zillion years ago when it had no piton scars (and we had no cams). Consult a recent topo. Nonetheless, I can say that, overall, the Tangerine Trip is a classic second generation El Cap route -- not an obvious line, but a honest, old-fashioned nail-up. The route ascends the most consistently overhanging part of El Cap, and there are no ledges. It's a good vertical adventure.
One very important warning. There is a sharp edge toward the top of pitch two (see topo). Please be careful not to jumar with the rope hanging over this edge (see photo below). Unfortunately, while doing the Pacific Ocean Wall later in the spring of 1979, I watched Chris Robbins fall to his death when his rope was cut while jumaring.
There is a beautiful little forest along the base of the east facing side of El Cap. Just right (further east) of this wooded area is a massive plug of grey diorite granite that has rotted out, forming a large, shallow cave. The route begins on the left margin of this shallow cave
As I mentioned, I have no recent information. When I did the route with Charles Cole in 1979, the bolts were quarter inch and many were missing hangers -- not pleasant. I encourage others to update.
Jun 10, 2009
Climbed this 5/22-5/24/09. We decided on the C3 version. This route currently goes at 5.8 C3/A2. Tons of bomber rivets thanks to the ASCA where the biggest whippers used to be taken on this route historically.
If you don't want beta, then don't read this.
3 ea. .3"- 2"
1 BD #3
1 BD #4 Glad I had the number 4.
2 Cam hooks (medium)
1 Bat hook (Real bathook not the one on a talon)
1 Grappling Hook (Large hook much more necessary than cliffhanger)
1 Cliffhanger (medium hook)
1.5 Sets of nuts, micro offsets useful.
10 Rivet hangers. There are bolts to clip through rivet sections, don't have to leave many except for directionals.
Heads: 2 sm., 2 med., 2 lg. I could hook around 2-3 blown heads, needed to place one on the ascent.
A2 version: bring a 3/4" and a 1" saw off.
A few other KBs and LAs might be nice if fixed gear is blown, 1 RURP.
- Pitches 1-4 were WET, and real slimy. Running back and forth to get the penjis on 4 was exciting, slipping across slime, diving for the fixed pro. Linked 3-4 w/ 60m.
- If you fix to 4 on day one, the wall is not so steep at this point that you can't swing down to the anchors of virginia. Prolly don't have to do much downaiding if any.
- Pitch 5 was a breeze, lots of fixed gear. I'd give it a C3-.
- Bivyed at the top of 6, nice bivy but the top of 7 is nicer.
- Pitch 8 was the real crux at C3. Grateful I wore my free shoes. A2 version takes those sawed angles.
- Bivyed at top of 12. Ledge has an unsupported corner, puts stress on ledge tubing. Swallows at 13 will sh#t on you, but it is much more protected from elements in storm than 12 or 14. Make it to 14 if you can.
- Note: A bit of traversing and wandering on this route. Leave plenty of pro for your second so they can clean pitches quickly.
|By Ryan Huetter|
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Oct 9, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b C2-
Easy climbing, steep hauling, and the ability to make some fast time on the bolt ladders make this the easiest route over on the right side. Certainly not the best climbing though. Zodiac is definitely a step up in difficulty, but WAAAAAY better.
|By Ranger Matt|
From: Yosemite NP
Nov 1, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a A2
Climbed this a few days ago.
A huge thanks from me goes out to ASCA on this one.
95% of all the rivets and bolts have been replaced.
We spent 3 nights on the wall after fixing to 4th pitch.
Great exposure with challenging but not too dangerous aid.
We placed ~4 pins the whole route. sawed-angles and blue-yellow metolius offsets cams were our MVPs.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 7, 2012
I believe that Erik Sloan did most of the replacing of rivets and bolts on this one about 4/5? years ago with a buddy of mine. Props to him as he has probably replaced over 1000 bolts and rivets on the captain and other rocks in the valley over the years.