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The Hinterlands
Routes Sorted
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Ale 8 S 
Back Crack T 
Barbed Wire Corner T 
Black Slabbath S 
Chicken Head S 
Chicken Parts S 
Cold Feet S 
Cold Shoulder  S 
Dolt S 
Electric Socks S 
Free Range Chicken T 
Giant Man S 
Hinterland Highway S 
Hole in the Wall T 
Hot Head S 
Jolt S 
Killers Crack T 
Know Moxie T 
Last Kid Picked S 
Little People, The S 
Mean Lean, The S 
Moxie T 
Nicky's Crack S 
Tang S 
Who Done It? T 

Tang 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ward Smith
Page Views: 577
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Aug 22, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Description 

This Route is Scary. All of the bolts are placed well, and it's not exposed or anything, it just takes some technical, balancy moves that feel very insecure and there seems to be a lot of rocks jutting out from below you. Luckily, I didn't fall, and I feel safe recommending this route, just something about it freaked me out a little. That made it kind of fun.

The route is the last one on the right before the steep, mossy gully with the fixed rope (which leads to the Crow's Nest.) It starts on some very steep jugs with a bolt just out of reach if you're 5'10". Climb up and left to a pretty good rest, you can stem to the rock fin behind you (The start to Little People, 5.10a.) From here climb up the smoothish face with some small crimps and a lot of balance to the anchors.

Location 

The far right side of the Hinterlands.

Protection 

4 bolts and lower offs


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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Dec 3, 2011

Tangy!
By John Gassel
From: Boston, MA
Jul 15, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I couldn't agree with the description more on this one. I can't pinpoint exactly what it was about this route, but it definitely had me sweating a few of the moves. They weren't run out or anything, but they were just tough enough that it always felt kind of committing.

My lead took a while - having to convince myself to make some of the moves. My second cruised up, questioning my concern and affirming the route isn't that hard.

It was good enough that I want to get back on it next time I'm in the area to give a go in better style.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Sep 15, 2014

The moves just after the start constitute the "tangy" part of the climb. They're not hard, just weird. There's a lot there, but how to use it? But the real fun begins once you're established on the slab itself. The slab part is short (just a few moves), but it's classic face climbing. Fun.