Located 15 feet to the right of Sugar Crack, begin in a crack with good hands, be aware of possible friable rock at the beginning. Continue up on somewhat overhanging good hands to the pod. Now the fun begins, use whatever technique you can to go through the offwidth pod crawl. I'm talking knee bars, shoulder bars, head bars, anything to move a 1/4 inch at a time. This is a very awkward pod, wearing a longsleeve shirt and pants will help you save some skin. Once out of the pod, use the same anchors as on Sugar Crack and hope your second can follow.
15 feet right of Sugar Crack.
Standard rack, save a big piece or two for the top.
BETA PHOTO: Tanfasia.
|By Sean Dunlop|
From: Durango, CO
May 19, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tyler, I was looking in the new guide book by Robert Kelman, I guess it was originally rated 9+ but with holds that have broken off it was rerated 10a. Just a little tidbit buddy. BTW you beat me to posting the route... bastard!
|By Tyler Smeenk|
From: Laramie, WY
May 20, 2008
Yeah I just put the rating that was in the Heel and Toe. I think it's more of a 10a, especially with that finish. I wish the sun didn't mess up some of those pics of you I took, oh well.
|By John Maurer|
Jun 8, 2008
Truly unique finish . . . how bizarre. Loads of fun and work, too. The traverse out is exciting for the 2nd if no gear is placed by the leader. Noteworthy position, to be sure. I found I'd occasionally get stuck and just have to lay there until I was inspired by some new tactic. Great route!