Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") 5.10b
| 3,610 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Bob Harrington & Kevin Leary, 1978 |
| Season: | March-October |
| Submitted By: | Darshan Ahluwalia on Mar 16, 2007 |
| |
Nick attempting the onsight of Tanager (5.10b), at...
Add Photo  Printer View
Description This is the right-leaning crack that is labeled "5.11 crack" in the Ghostrider topo posted on the Ghostrider page. I am not sure what it is actually called or who were the first ascentionists. In anycase, this is an awesome pitch and is only 5.10b or so. Very sustained and pumpy. Jam and layback the crack to the bolts.
Location About 50 feet to the right of the Tunnel-through start of Ghostrider. About 20 feet to the left of the 5.9 bolted start of Ghostrider.
Protection Nothing but cams. Lots of wide-fingers to hands gear. Two slung bolts are at the top of the crack (without rap rings). Rappel off the slings (do not lower off). Pull the rope slowly so as to avoid weakening the slings.
Rob Beno on Tanager AKA 5.11 Crack
|
Rob Beno on Tanager AKA 5.11 Crack
| |
| Comments on Tanager (aka "5.11 Crack") |
|
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Sep 10, 2007
| The route is called Tanager 5.10b FA by Bob Harrington & Kevin Leary in 1978 if you can believe that!
~Susan |
By C Miller
Administrator
Sep 10, 2007
| Named after the species of bird? |
By Darrell Hensel
May 20, 2008
| Tanager can now be done as a first pitch to Ghostrider. Continue face climbing past two more bolts after reaching the belay bolts at the end of the crack. The extended pitch ends on the large ledge at the last/bottom rappel station of Ghostrider.
The crack is still the crux so the overall rating remains the same. This is probably the best start to Ghostrider. |
By Vic Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
Jun 22, 2009
| you can also use this as a great way to warm up for Gangway! Just head right from the anchor up a brushy gully and whamo, yer at the base of the crux pitch (.12a semi-sandbagged IMHO) of Gangway. |
By Monty
From: Morrison, Co
Nov 1, 2011
| Great pitch! We used this to start ghost rider which was a great way to start the day. The slab above the crack is pretty friable though and leads you (or at least me) right into a bush when you are the most run out... Exciting but fun. Nothing like a 5th class bushwhack! |
By Richard Shore
May 6, 2012
rating: 5.10+
| If Nimbus over on the right side of WP Buttress is 5.10c, then this really is the "5.11 crack." This felt significantly harder than then crux of that route. Bad feet with lots of 0.5 and 0.75 camalot-sized jamming. |
By Richard Shore
Sep 17, 2012
rating: 5.10+
| Repeated this route last weekend; this time with the slab extension to link into Ghostrider. I must disagree with Hensel's statement that the slab is only 10a - this felt harder than the crux of the crack below. It was thin, sequential, and in the heat of the sun felt closer to 11a than 10a. Tat slings on the lower-off bolts are currently gone, bring your own if you want to finish at the end of the crack. |
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 13, 2013
rating: 5.10b
| Richard, you're spot-on.
Slab + sun = grim
Great route. |
|
RSS Feed
20 more...
Slideshow
