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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Tampon 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: John Sherman, 1980
Page Views: 676
Submitted By: Joseph Proulx on Oct 9, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is the shallow, left-facing dihedral on the face between Duh Dihedral and Pool of Blood. Start from a small ledge with a smaller tree (bottom left of photo) and climb the dihedral to where PoB meets DD. The climbing is easier than it looks, but the moves are tricky to work out.

A pitch of climbing like this would merit three stars. It's short but very fun climbing.


Protection 

Climb this with a TR on the Duh Diheral chains. On lead, you'll probably want a few small to medium cams that you wouldn't need on Duh Dihedral .



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By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 8, 2005

I think the pro basically sucks on this one. Emphasis on small RPs. TR from DD is probably the best option.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2005

Comment as was attached to 'Pool Of Blood' (neighboring route):

By: Tony Bubb On: 11.5.2001 Comments: This route can be finished directly from the top of the flake to the tree on some small holds and seams. This is probably 5.11- and there really is no gear, so a TR is advisable. (Bubb, Donson winter 2000?)

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 25, 2007

Worth climbing once.

By Chris Zeller
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 3, 2008

The pro on this one is very poor. Easier to TR from Duh Dihedral. I think this is a sandbag at 5.7 maybe 5.8 with one 5.9 move before you merge with Duh Dihedral.

By Dave Pilot
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 27, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R

The pro is small but it seemed adequate. One needs a good rack of micro stoppers. There seemed to be a good placement at every good stance and I never felt run out. However, that said, if you're not very confident and capable at the grade, TR it.

By Robert Buswold
From: Longmont, CO
Feb 26, 2012

I did this one as a TR from the anchors for Duh Dihedral. The crux move seemed very hard for me, even harder than Pool of Blood to the left.

By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
Mar 4, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R

At the ledge, jog left to the top of Pool's flake for a move and then continue up to the top. A full pitch and independent line (on TR).