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 ADVANCED
West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Mail T 
Backslash T 
Barbie Doll Arete, The T 
Bit by Bit T,S 
Bottlenecks T 
Clean Dan T 
Coffee Break with Joe T 
Cold Turkey T 
Coniferous Types T 
Crazy Fingers T 
Cruising Lane T 
Detour, The T 
Doc's Little Brother T,TR 
Dr. Michael Solar T,TR 
Duh Dihedral T 
Early Bird Special T 
Fine Line T,TR 
Fork in the Road T 
Formula, The T 
Foxtrot T 
Funeral March T 
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) T 
Hang Ten T,TR 
Highway 61 T 
Inverted Vee T 
Iron Pony T,S 
Kashmir T,TR 
Kubla Khan T 
Lady Fingers T 
Lunar Avenue T 
Lunar Lander T 
Masterbator's Edge, The T 
Milk and Honey T 
Milk Dreams T 
Mirage T 
MRJR (aka MB III) T,TR 
Parallels T 
Pool of Blood T 
Positively Fourth Street T,TR 
Rhadamanthus T 
River Of Darkness T 
Road Narrows T 
Sign of the Cross T 
Snail Mail T 
Srinagar T 
Tampon T,TR 
Tango T 
Tanqueray T 
Terminal Velocity T 
Texas Two-Step T 
Three Lane Highway T 
Toprope Right of Formula TR 
Trip Itch T 
Tryptich T 
Whatever T 
Willow World T 
Working Class Hero T 
X T 
Xanadu T 
Zap Snack T 
Zip Code T 

Tampon 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: John Sherman, 1980
Page Views: 690
Submitted By: Joseph Proulx on Oct 9, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is the shallow, left-facing dihedral on the face between Duh Dihedral and Pool of Blood. Start from a small ledge with a smaller tree (bottom left of photo) and climb the dihedral to where PoB meets DD. The climbing is easier than it looks, but the moves are tricky to work out.

A pitch of climbing like this would merit three stars. It's short but very fun climbing.

Protection 

Climb this with a TR on the Duh Diheral chains. On lead, you'll probably want a few small to medium cams that you wouldn't need on Duh Dihedral .


Comments on Tampon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 8, 2005

I think the pro basically sucks on this one. Emphasis on small RPs. TR from DD is probably the best option.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 29, 2005

Comment as was attached to 'Pool Of Blood' (neighboring route):

By: Tony Bubb On: 11.5.2001 Comments: This route can be finished directly from the top of the flake to the tree on some small holds and seams. This is probably 5.11- and there really is no gear, so a TR is advisable. (Bubb, Donson winter 2000?)
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 25, 2007

Worth climbing once.
By Chris Zeller
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 3, 2008

The pro on this one is very poor. Easier to TR from Duh Dihedral. I think this is a sandbag at 5.7 maybe 5.8 with one 5.9 move before you merge with Duh Dihedral.
By Dave Pilot
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 27, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

The pro is small but it seemed adequate. One needs a good rack of micro stoppers. There seemed to be a good placement at every good stance and I never felt run out. However, that said, if you're not very confident and capable at the grade, TR it.
By Robert Buswold
From: Longmont, CO
Feb 26, 2012

I did this one as a TR from the anchors for Duh Dihedral. The crux move seemed very hard for me, even harder than Pool of Blood to the left.
By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
Mar 4, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

At the ledge, jog left to the top of Pool's flake for a move and then continue up to the top. A full pitch and independent line (on TR).