Tammy Fae  5.10c

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet Consensus:  5.10c [details] FA:  Mark Carpenter et al, late 1980's Submitted By:  Osprey on Nov 26, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

I don't feel that this climb is R-rated. Its a little heads up at the bottom exiting the crux .10c reach from the top pin scar to the sloper on the ledge. But once you get the first bolt it is well protected the rest of the way. You have to hug the rock not to touch the tree, and I think some dime edges past the 4th bolt are no longer there. (Going past bolt 4 is definitely the new crux.) The roof has an amazingly good crack running through it and takes great pro. An excellent finger crack takes you to the ledge at the top. I think this climb is just as good as Revival!

Location 

Between Revival and Aunt Fanny's Pantry. The pin scars which mark the start are just left of the Pantry.

Protection 

Five quick draws and gear to 2.5. Natural anchor at top. Rap from the tree at the top of Revival with two ropes. If you only have one rope then see the comment section of Revival. There are options for rapping with one rope.