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I don't feel that this climb is R-rated. Its a little heads up at the bottom exiting the crux .10c reach from the top pin scar to the sloper on the ledge. But once you get the first bolt it is well protected the rest of the way. You have to hug the rock not to touch the tree, and I think some dime edges past the 4th bolt are no longer there. (Going past bolt 4 is definitely the new crux.) The roof has an amazingly good crack running through it and takes great pro. An excellent finger crack takes you to the ledge at the top. I think this climb is just as good as Revival!
Between Revival and Aunt Fanny's Pantry. The pin scars which mark the start are just left of the Pantry.
Five quick draws and gear to 2.5. Natural anchor at top. Rap from the tree at the top of Revival with two ropes. If you only have one rope then see the comment section of Revival. There are options for rapping with one rope.
May 7, 2010
The tree to the right of the pantry has fallen and is now laying in front of the climb. This actually makes the climb much better as you do not have to hug the rock to avoid touching the tree at the second or third bolt. Give it a try if Revival is occupied, the R rating in the Reid guide is really soft.
Sep 22, 2012
Just spent some time on this today. Passing the 4th bolt is 10d now. IMO.