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Unsorted Routes:

Taming AmyG Dala 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 99'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: mark geikenjoyner, scott duemler, manny rangel
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 880
Submitted By: markguycan on Apr 6, 2010
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Scott topping out.

Description 

This will be a very difficult onsite, but only 11b/c on repoint. Start stemming the chimney til you can clip the first bolt, then commit to the face. Lot's of technical moves, some odd angled holds and a few jugs. pass the huge roof and traverse out onto the airy arete. continue difficult climbing utilizing holds on both sides of the arete.


Location 

just right of Mayor of Oldschool, left of Avian Flew


Protection 

11QD's, 60M rope.



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By BenClimbing
Oct 13, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Tie a knot in the end(s) of your rope on this one! You will need every centimeter of your 60 meter rope. Also make sure that when you lower down or rap this pitch the rope lays on the left side of the arete. If you don't knot the rope and rap or lower down the right side of the arete and aren't paying attention, you will probably fall to your death! That being said, this is an awsome climb! Do it.

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 26, 2013

Just realized that AmyG Dala is not a person but rather the part of the brain associated with emotional, as opposed to, rational response.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amygdala
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amygdala_hijack

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 31, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

This is a spectacular climb! Been intimidated by it for a long time and it doesn't look like it gets much traffic, but holy cow, what an exhilerating climb. So improbable and yet it is all there. 60 m rope worked fine for the rap, but, yeah, obviously watch the end!