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This could be seen as either a variation to the last pitch of Where Eagles Dare
or an independent climb in the same vein as Decade Dance
or Aging Time
. It starts at the bolt anchor over the roof on Where Eagles Dare
(also the end of the sport route Respite
). Move left and through a bulge on a hand crack, then hand traverse left about 10 feet above the roof (5.8 or 5.9). Keep moving up and left until you're in a vague corner system, about six feet right of the prow. Climb straight up, passing a very tricky crux with small-wire pro, a steep lieback, and easier crack climbing to the top.
There is still a lot of lichen on this line, so it's tough to assess its difficulty -- hard 5.10 seems a good place to start. I will return when I get a chance and brush it. Already it's a much more interesting finish to Where Eagles Dare
than the normal cracks. It's got great position, perfect pro, and really fun climbing.
Bring RPs and/or a very small stopper.
By Dougald MacDonald
Oct 10, 2003
I went back and brushed the worst lichen off this route a couple of weeks ago. Enjoy! An excellent, four-pitch 5.10 link-up can be done by climbing the first two pitches of Where Eagles Dare, the second pitch of Blacklight (5.10 corner and hand traverse above the big ledge, a bit dirty from under-use but well-protected and exciting), and then finishing on Talon Contest. This adds up to one of the most continuous and interesting long 5.10s in Boulder Canyon.