|Sun Spot Crags
Tallest Man On Earth
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||EFR,JSt,David Merin,Josie Becker,Eric Ruljancich,Christian Rodenbeck, Max|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||676|
|Submitted By: ||1Eric Rhicard on Mar 10, 2010|
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BETA PHOTO: The climber is on Hashbrowns. The trad finish clim...
This is a variation finish to Hashbrowns. A cool committing move with nice air lead to a big jug then a hard traverse and pumpy gear placements. Stays on you even when it looks like it should be over. Pro is good but a little shallow small and spooky. A failure of the gear on the traverse could lead to a swing into a ramp. Long slings on the last bolt and the first gear placements really help with the rope drag. We did this route after toproping it once, so although we didn't have the gear completely dialed we did have a clue and that helps. This would be a proud onsight and I base the rating on that. If it was a clip up I would probably call it an 11+. Will change it if needed as more folks climb it. Rock is a little chossy in places but should clean up with some work and traffic. D. Merin did the lower half using sparse gear placements and 4 ft. runners to reduce drag and make the whole thing trad.
Start up Hashbrowns and as you get to the bulge below the chimney clip the bolt below the bulge with a long sling then move up even with the lip of the bulge and climb right to a horizontal. After getting bomber gear with a long sling, continue right four feet or so, place small cams then head up the face to crack eventually working right to another crack and the anchors
If you just do the finish with trad gear you need Cams to yellow Camalot. A purple Camalot and a yellow metolius can be had at the first jug. A blue mastercam (fell on it once) in a shallow horizontal after traversing or you fill a handhold, then a purple master just above it in an angling crack are all that is between you and a collision with stone. After that a yellow camalot then a blue mastercam, then a red camalot with a long sling, and maybe one or two greens will get you to the top. If you skip the bolts on the first half you will need more gear to protect it.
David Merin beginning the traverse across the hori...
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 10, 2010
Nice Eric!! Can't wait to try it out!
|By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich|
From: Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Mar 11, 2010
Nice send Eric. Pretty sweet birthday present too. This is a stout line, and involves some serious climbing over good, but small, well spaced gear. Dang, now I have to redpoint this thing.....
Mar 12, 2010
I was there during the tantrum I would've called it Binary Star.
Another great gear climb goes up at the Sun Spots, who'd of thought...
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Mar 14, 2010
Tantrum Galaxy, what do you know about tantrums? The Jimbo that was there had gray hair, not brownish black with coppery highlights. You sir are an impostor.