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The Tall Wall
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Tall T 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tim Standing, 2007
Page Views: 644
Submitted By: Dave Daly on Oct 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Climber on 'Tall T', Tall Wall

Photo by Blitzo

Description 

A recent addition to the Tall Wall, 'Tall T' was put up by Tim Standing in 2007. The route starts 10 feet right of 'Banana Split', by intially climbing flakes (dirty and loose!) to the open slab above. Most find the crux in between bolts 3 and 4, as one makes delicate friction moves on "kitty litter".


Location 

In addition to the description above, a variation exists (not shown in the current 'Bishop Area Rock Climbs' guide book) by initially climbing 'Banana Split' (the crack/seam which starts just left of Tall T) to its first bolt then traverse up and right, clipping a bolt underneath a buldge. Continue upward to the fourth bolt of 'Tall T'. This variation can be protected with small nuts (optional) after clipping the first bolt.


Protection 

10 bolts. Mussey hooks for anchors.



Comments on Tall T Add Comment
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By Dave Daly
From: Temecula, CA
Oct 14, 2008

Although only "one" star was given for this route, the upper half of this route is excellent, providing a lesson in edging and slab skills.

By John Jackson
Jan 3, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

This route must be cleaning up and is now a fun route. Nice sustained edging up a steep slab/face.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 2, 2009

I agree: this route proved to be quite fun and sustained. I definitely give it three stars.

By LifeIsGood
May 15, 2010

Loose crumbly flakey rock - pulled a big flake off just above the 3rd bolt (I think that was where it was).

Sustained climing - weather was windy crappy and cold (October 2009), making for a miserable climbing day. The route was definitely no gimmie even if the weather had been nice. I'd love to try it again, this time without the crumbling flake pulling off in my hand.

By Randy in Ridgecrest
From: Inyokern, CA
May 4, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

This climb will save your sanity as the group you are with insists on spending another morning at The Tall Wall doing the same two climbs over and over and over.

By jfailing
From: Lone Pine, CA
Sep 8, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

This route *may* have cleaned up a little bit, but the first bit of the climb is pretty grungy - particularly a mantle up onto a flaky hold that will eventually go...

The upper half is great! Typical A-hills crimp/edging.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jan 27, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

The left-hand alternate, which starts on Banana Split and then traverses right after that route's first bolt, is HIGHLY recommended. This allows you to skip some extremely scary rock on Tall T's first 3-4 bolts. Two dedicated bolts protect the travers over to Tall T. As mentioned by others the second half of Tall T exhibits good rock and great movement.