|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Nate Postma (1990)|
|Submitted By:||Chris treggE on Jul 18, 2006|
|Comments on Talking with God||Add Comment|
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By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 11, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
short folks shouldn't shy away from this route. good footwork and not a long reach is what's needed to pull the roof (the route's crux).
talking with god goes on gear. if you decide to lead this chosspile, you'll need small cams and small to medium nuts, as well as three 24" runners and some long draws.
up to the roof's lip, i used a .75 BD, an orange TCU, a yellow TCU, and three blue tcu's. the gear down-low looked solid. i cannot say the same for the stuff in the roof. those cracks are chossy and flared! in shape, they resemble hourglasses. that's not good for either cam or nut placements. but, eh, such is par for trad leading at red wang. haha.
the climbing above the roof is easy, but gear placements are infrequent and poor (again, chossy, flared, etc). i found it was easiest (quick, convenient) to run it out to the chains. if you do decide to protect that section, take small nuts and another orange/red TCU.
by the time you have read this comment, you could have climbed talking with god twice or done countless other activities that do not waste your time by discussing some obscure chunk of choss and the chossy route that climbs it. congratulations. you have wasted your valuable time, time you will never get back. yay!
now excuse me while i go SPRAY all over another mproject page.
May 24, 2010
May I just say, "Wow". First of all, I know someone who broke an ankle while leading this thing on bolts. Second, the rock completely sucks, unless you're looking to build a sandcastle, and you led it on gear. Finally, you downgraded it. Impressive. Most impressive.
Oh, and yeah, I'm not 5'10" no matter what I tell people, and I've climbed this thing a bunch of times.
By Chris treggE
From: Madison, WI
May 25, 2010
Mr. Ferrel so you know levitation? ;)
When I wrote that long ago, I knew a buncha taller folks who sent with ease and a few shorties who couldn't. I stand corrected. I'm 5'10" and I could barely pull it off, 5.11d seemed about right. Yup.
Bummer about your friend. That bottom section is total choss. Leading it on gear is for the clinically insane!