Talking Hands  5.10

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet FA:  S. Kimball, Wylie, M. Wilford, 1980 Submitted By:  Leo Paik on May 28, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Topo of Talking Hands.

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a short route on the North face (containing at least 5 routes) of Triangle Rock. It is the left-most line, catching a finger crack on its upper half. Although it can be led, a TR might prove more palatable, due to the start & tree at midheight. It is not a destination climb but worth a run if you are already at Triangle Rock.

Approach this as for the East side of Twin Owls & Gollum's Arch. Approach as for Gollum's Arch, head down a gully, then traverse to the crag. This rock lies East of Twin Owls & is down & East of Gollum's Arch. Expect a bit of bush.

This line heads up to a small tree (with an ugly upward pointing branch). Delicately move through an unprotected & licheny start to gain a tree about 20 feet up. Move up into the finger crack. One can find an undercling in the crack. Fire to the top. 40 feet.

You can walkoff down the South face and exit East.

Protection 

Some nuts & smaller cams, a bit of courage for the start. Perhaps it is better for a TR.

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Deb on the finger crack.