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 ADVANCED
Triangle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bucket Brigade T,TR 
EB Jeebies T,TR 
Stud Pile T,TR 
Talking Hands T,TR 
Unknown (Double Lieback) T,TR 

Talking Hands 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: S. Kimball, Wylie, M. Wilford, 1980
Page Views: 183
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 28, 2005

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Topo of Talking Hands.
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Description 

This is a short route on the North face (containing at least 5 routes) of Triangle Rock. It is the left-most line, catching a finger crack on its upper half. Although it can be led, a TR might prove more palatable, due to the start & tree at midheight. It is not a destination climb but worth a run if you are already at Triangle Rock.

Approach this as for the East side of Twin Owls & Gollum's Arch. Approach as for Gollum's Arch, head down a gully, then traverse to the crag. This rock lies East of Twin Owls & is down & East of Gollum's Arch. Expect a bit of bush.

This line heads up to a small tree (with an ugly upward pointing branch). Delicately move through an unprotected & licheny start to gain a tree about 20 feet up. Move up into the finger crack. One can find an undercling in the crack. Fire to the top. 40 feet.

You can walkoff down the South face and exit East.


Protection 

Some nuts & smaller cams, a bit of courage for the start. Perhaps it is better for a TR.



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Deb on the finger crack.
Deb on the finger crack.
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