|Slab from Hell
|Type: ||Trad, 3 pitches, 350', Grade II|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Patrick Seurynck, Ralph Mitchell|
|Page Views: ||1,270|
|Submitted By: ||BJ Sbarra on Aug 25, 2008|
|Good Page?||1 person likes this page. Your opinion: |
Tracy Wilson finishing up the last pitch of Taliba...
P1. Climb up the slab to the first bolt, make a long, awkward move to the flake on the left and then follow bolts up to the crack. Follow the nice splitter (might be some vegetation in spots, as it doesn't see much traffic) as it widens from fingers to fists. Best to move up past the first anchor to the next anchor 20' higher.
P2. Follow the bolts up the edge of the face. The exposure in spots is excellent, as the formation drops steeply into the gully on your right. Stop at the obviously belay anchor, or link with the next pitch for a 200' monster.
P3. Follow more bolts up as the rock gets steeper, working whichever side appeals to you. Really nice climbing.
Make 2 single rope raps back to the higher belay anchor at the top of the first pitch. From here, a 70m cord will get you to the bottom if you head down in the right spot, otherwise move to the lower anchor. With a 60m, you SHOULD be able to reach the ground from the lower anchor, but may have to rap into the gully on climber's right instead, make sure to pay attention while you rap.
Follow the trail/talus up to the obvious large slab, the route starts on the right side of the formation, the first bolt should be obvious, just down and right of a large, pointy flake.
Take 12 quickdraws and a single set of cams from fingers to fists, if you want to sew up the crack.
Heather on Taliban Blues, pitch 3. Low angle but ...
BETA PHOTO: First pitch with the finger/hand crack.
Looking down pitch 2. Some amazing slab climbing!
Beautiful morning for some granite slab.
Heather pitch 2 Taliban Blues.
|Comments on Taliban Blues
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Jul 14, 2011
Lots of draws, 0.4 or 0.5, and 0.75 and #2 is plenty for the crack.
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 28, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
Great job putting up this route! Took my wife up it, what a solid line in a spectacular setting. Seeing that I don't climb low-angle slab ever, I was pretty darn grateful for the time and expense that went into safely bolting this line.
Truly 0.4, 0.5, 1, and 2 will SEW the crack. Leave cams at top of p1 and grab on the way down. Rapping to first p1 anchors from p2 won't work even w 70 w/o a touch of shenanigans - knot those ends and be careful....