Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Holiday Block
Select Route:
Gravy Train T 
Chimney Approach T 
Cinco de Mayo T 
Cruise This S 
Mark's Menace T 
My Dog Has Fleas S 
Never Believe S 
Oyster S 
Pigs in Zen (Tuesday's Gone) S 
Plush S 
Pump Handles T 
Rabies S 
Tales From the Hard Side S 
That Eight (aka Kennel Club) S 
They Call Me Cruiser T 
Walking the Dog T 

Tales From the Hard Side 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Shannon Stegg
Page Views: 779
Submitted By: Will S on Nov 13, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This is a fantastic steep and bouldery route with two distinct cruxes, one after the second bolt and one just below the top. Gym rats and boulderers will love this one. Sequence through the first couple bolts is important to minimize the number of moves and to be clipping off the right holds.

Steepish climbing on jugs and edges lead to the second bolt where a wild balancy sequence starts involving a sloping sidepull and a huge right hand move to a full-hand flat edge. Easier climbing on medium to small edges gets you to the second crux just below the juggy horizontals a body length below the top. Either use a crimp on the right to gain the jugs, or use a bad shallow pinch on the left and make a big dyno right/up for the jug rail. Either way, latch the jugs, clip the last bolt and romp up 5-easy for a bodylength to the top.

Although this was originally rated 12b, a foothold broke sometime after I last climbed it (mid/late 90s), yielding a better foot, and consensus is that it's now quite a bit easier, with the grade settling around 11d. Also sounds like it has been re-bolted with the bolts in different places, which seems odd, as the route was safe enough before.

Location 

On the west side of Holiday Block, right of center, between Never Believe and Tuesday's Gone.

Protection 

Although originally done as a trad route with some pre-placed gear, this was unfortunately retrobolted in the mid 90s. 4 bolts.


Comments on Tales From the Hard Side Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -