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Tales From the Grypt 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jim Steagall, Deidre Burton
Page Views: 1,628
Submitted By: David Arthur Sampson on May 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Fun route! One of my favorites in the canyon. Go a...

Description 

Hard start, especially for short people! Use a cheater stone (if need be). I inadvertently stressed my arm for the second clip BECAUSE I did not see a small, positive clipping hold. Look for a small pocket to clip from up and slightly left of the second bolt (maybe 50 cm). The rest of the climb is a fun cruiser (although, watch your pump).

Location 

Two climbs to the right of the popular "Sacrificial Lizard" on the Main Wall.

Protection 

Well bolted to the extent of being over-bolted, but that's ok.


Photos of Tales From the Grypt Slideshow Add Photo
There is a solid jug after coming up over the overhang. Throw from two obvious pockets to jug.
There is a solid jug after coming up over the over...
Fun route!
Fun route!

Comments on Tales From the Grypt Add Comment
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By Allison Fritz
From: Los Alamos, New Mexico
Jun 2, 2007

A really nice climb. The start was difficult as I am 5'5". Jason could clip the 1st bolt from the ground. A stick clip might have been nice to clip the 2nd bolt. The upper section of the climb is not as hard as the lower section.
By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 20, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Steep, bouldery, sustained, and crazy fun until about the fifth bolt, where it becomes 5.9 face for the last 45 feet. Still, the incredible lower section is worth the slog to the anchors.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 13, 2008

At 5'7" I could clip the first bolt from the ground and pull off (to my amazement) the bouldery start. I used the pocket high of the 2nd bolt to clip from which must have been the ticket. Large pockets, steep rock (not in that order) makes for some great climbing.

Personally I enjoyed the vertical upper section. One persons "slog" anothers "Thank God!". Face it if the route continued to bulge out at the same rate at the lower half we'd have to get a film crew and Sharma out to on-site it.

I think it goes 9 bolts to shut anchors. The lower section is somewhat difficult to clean yourself so encourage your belayer to give it a shot!
By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 29, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

"if the route continued to bulge out at the same rate at the lower half..." Jacks might have a genuinely world-class, classic route. A man can dream...

Alright, so the upper section isn't really a slog, it's nice to get the air under your feet and more mileage than most routes at Jacks. But after the start it does feel a bit inconsequential.
By BenClimbing
Dec 14, 2009
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

"If the route cont......A man can dream...." Amen to that.
BTW, I don't think this route (or any at Jacks for that matter) is anywhere near 85'.