Tale of Two Shitties  5.10a

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Jeff Thomas Chis Jones Mike Hartley 78 Submitted By:  Bryson Slothower on Mar 9, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

pitch 2 of Tale...

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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>> For 2012 closure info, see smithrock.com/b2evolution/media/blogs/routes/eagle-closure-2>>> This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

An excellent three pitch climb follows the right-hand side of the formation. The 2nd pitch is great climbing.

Pitch 1:
Climb a slightly chossy corner system for about 80 feet to a gear belay at the base of the dihedral. (uncomfortable belay)
5.7

Pitch 2: Jam the clean dihedral until the crack veers right then climb a strenous finger crack through a bulge to a fat ledge with a bolt anchor.
10.a

Pitch 3:
A bit spooky! Climb the face above and left of the anchor past a few bolts to a decent runout on small nubbins (5.9) to the big ledge above.
5.9R

The easiest way off is to traverse the ledge above the 3rd pitch to the anchor at the top of the Trezlar dihedral and rap from there with two ropes.

Location 

Right of Bad Moon Rising there is a large block leaning against the face, it has two bolts on it. The second crack system to the right of the block is Tale.

Protection 

gear to 3" with an extra hand size for the anchor on top of pitch 1.