Tale of Two Shitties
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pitch 2 of Tale...
An excellent three pitch climb follows the right-hand side of the formation. The 2nd pitch is great climbing.
Climb a slightly chossy corner system for about 80 feet to a gear belay at the base of the dihedral. (uncomfortable belay)
Pitch 2: Jam the clean dihedral until the crack veers right then climb a strenous finger crack through a bulge to a fat ledge with a bolt anchor.
A bit spooky! Climb the face above and left of the anchor past a few bolts to a decent runout on small nubbins (5.9) to the big ledge above.
The easiest way off is to traverse the ledge above the 3rd pitch to the anchor at the top of the Trezlar dihedral and rap from there with two ropes.
Right of Bad Moon Rising
there is a large block leaning against the face, it has two bolts on it. The second crack system to the right of the block is Tale.
gear to 3" with an extra hand size for the anchor on top of pitch 1.
May 1, 2008
Heather of Seattle, grabbed your Mountain Hardwear vest at the bottom of the pitch. Happy to get it back to you in return for a your Enchantments pass. Get ahold of me and I'll send it your way.
Great route. Super fun, powerful crux. Protect it with a #1 then fire it!
Jun 28, 2012
Well worth doing for the second pitch finger crack action. It would be very popular if it was a single pitch off the ground. And you don't need 2 ropes to get down: rap with one 60m from the top of Trezlar (see my comment on that route).