|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 250'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Jeff Thomas Chis Jones Mike Hartley 78|
|Submitted By:||Bryson Slothower on Mar 9, 2006|
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|Comments on Tale of Two Shitties||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
May 1, 2008
Heather of Seattle, grabbed your Mountain Hardwear vest at the bottom of the pitch. Happy to get it back to you in return for a your Enchantments pass. Get ahold of me and I'll send it your way.
Great route. Super fun, powerful crux. Protect it with a #1 then fire it!
Jun 28, 2012
|Well worth doing for the second pitch finger crack action. It would be very popular if it was a single pitch off the ground. And you don't need 2 ropes to get down: rap with one 60m from the top of Trezlar (see my comment on that route).|
By Daniel Vakili
Aug 31, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|60m rope ran right up to the top of the second belay. Now that's a proper pitch of climbing. Highly recommended.|
By Topher Dabrowski
Apr 4, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
I enjoyed this route but found the first pitch was tricky to protect at the start and had plenty of loose and creaky flakes/blocks. The P1 belay was not too inspiring and would benefit from a set of fixed anchors given how hollow and soft the rock is.
Pitch 2 is great and of high quality. It ends at a comfy belay platform with belay bolts.
One can avoid the R rated pitch by rapping down to anchors on the climber's right (easily spotted from the belay station) with 3 raps on a 60m or 2 raps on a 70m rope.
Gear I would recommend:
1 set of nuts (include the bigger nuts & offset nuts worked well)
Camalot sizes 0.4 - 3.0 with double 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2