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The Streaked Wall
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Latitudes 
Rodeo Queen 
Tale of the Scorpion 
Wet Stone Wall 

Tale of the Scorpion 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a A3+

   
Type:  Aid, 9 pitches, Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a A3 [details]
FA: Dave Webster, Rick Nelson, Jeff Mayhew April 1990
Season: fall and spring (beware of Thanksgiving)
Page Views: 8,873
Submitted By: mat degraaf on Jul 1, 2007
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Description 

The Streaked Wall is the most intimidating wall in the park. It is severely overhanging and requires full commitment. Once you leave the ground retreat is not an option.

The route begins off Rubicon ledge and arches at what seems like 45 degrees across a beautifully blank wall. There is nothing but a solitary crack and big air.

The first and third pitches are the technical cruxes but each pitch involves a good bit of work. All but the last 3 pitches are A3.

Many of the belay and lead bolts have been replaced.

There are many "holes" on the route. Bring plenty of #2 sawed-off angles to drop into them.


Approach 

From the Zion Canyon intersection, look due west, drool, park on the west side of the river in the small pull out. Don't block the gate.

Muster up all of your mental and physical fortitude and follow the obvious drainage. After 1/2 mile or so, veer left out of the drainage and follow a faint path to the base of the wall.

Bushwhack your way up right until you reach an obvious blank wall with a bolt ladder.

The route begins in an obvious dihedral at the left end of Rubicon ledge. There are 3 "approach" pitches to get to Rubicon.


Protection 

Blades, beaks, angles, cams to #4, hooks, bolt kit, and more. Basically, come armed for bear.


Descent 

Walk SE across the top of the wall. Stay close to the edge. Aim for the museum.

There are 3 raps.

Keep your eyes peeled. From the saddle, you can either go back towards the drainage (and your car) or towards the museum. Both suck.



Photos of Tale of the Scorpion Slideshow Add Photo
Pitch 5
Pitch 5
windy conditions
windy conditions
looking down from pitch 6. Nate "f*&kin'" Davis relaxes
looking down from pitch 6. Nate "f*&kin'" Davis re...
The Streaked Wall from the approach drainage
The Streaked Wall from the approach drainage
Streaked belay
Streaked belay
looking down from pitch 7 - (notice the angle of the haul line)
looking down from pitch 7 - (notice the angle of t...
To hook or nail a sawed off?
To hook or nail a sawed off?
Comments on Tale of the Scorpion Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brad G
From: Yosemite and else where
Sep 27, 2007

Dose anyone know how many pitches this route is?

By Bryan Gilmore
From: Your Mama
Oct 4, 2007

Brad, I don't know Tails of the Scorpion- but I've done Lattitudes and it was eight pitches from Rubicon Ledge if my memory serves me... There was a detailed topo at the visitors center at that time. Enjoy.

By JMayhew
From: Tucson, AZ
May 18, 2008

Correct name is "Tale of the Scorpion," being a play on words. You can see the black scorpion on the wall to the right of the actual line. An epic story of being stung hard. FA Dave Webster, Rick Nelson, Jeff Mayhew April 1990. Originally 4 approach pitches and 10 on the main wall.

By ErikK
Dec 21, 2008

There is no topo around, the info in the description is enough to guide you in the right direction. And yes, agreed, be wary of Thanksgiving........

By Nate Brown
From: Wilson, Wy
Jul 21, 2009

Maybe, for longevity sake, tapping skyhook lightly into the heinous holes will help them last longer. Also, even though many will disagree, I feel that adding a bolt next to a shitty hole is doing most future parties, and perhaps yourself, a favor.

By Wade Griffith
Feb 1, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a A3-

How long does that approach take with hauling to the base?

By mat degraaf
Feb 14, 2011

From your car to the base of the approach pitches takes about an hour or so. To climb and haul the approach pitches takes another hour plus. Look for the haul station in the middle of the face. This will streamline the process.
I agree with Nate, bad holes only get worse. Use discretion and think of those who will inevitably come after you.

By Wade Griffith
Mar 25, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a A3-

You guys saying the hook holes are totally blown and need a bolt? Would definitely rather not resort to that. Are subsequent parties having to continually enhance hooks cause rock is soft?

By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Apr 1, 2013

Ed Fogels and I made the first attempt on this route, October 1980. We had Forrest hammocks, 10 rurps, 40 bolts from the hardware store in St. George, and two bat hooks (made for us by a very old and generous man in town).

The rangers told us a rescue would be impossible and watched us with telescopes every day as we hauled water up to Rubicon ledge. The first bolt on the Streaked Wall broke easily as I wrenched it down. Unable to trust our anchors we ended our attempt after one pitch off Rubicon.



By Wade Griffith
Oct 1, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a A3-

Amazing route. Worst part is the approach up till Rubicon and descent. The climb itself was steep and fun with lots of beaking. Bring many medium to large beaks and #2 and #3 sawed offs. We found that even the supposedly easy pitches required some work. Overhanging and right leaning from pitch 3 on.