Taken for Granite
|5,130 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.8 [details]|
|FA: ||Jeff Sewell, Larry Stone & Dave Bruckman, January 1979|
|Submitted By: ||AJ on Jan 1, 2002|
My girlfriend onsighting Taken for Granite. The f...
This is the obvious left-arching crack splitting Rattlesnake Buttress. Start with a 5.8 boulder problem under a small roof. Climb a wide slot with a finger crack on the right for 30' to the top of a large block. From here, stay left in the beautiful hand/finger crack.
2 rope rap from slings or easy 5th class descent down gully behind the face.
thin to 2.5"
Jonny flying up Taken For Granite.
BETA PHOTO: Taken for Granite
Following the alternative start to Taken for Grani...
|Comments on Taken for Granite
|By David Evans|
Nov 6, 2003
Hey Jeff Sewell and Dave Bruckman, where are you guys these days? E-mail me!DE
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jan 4, 2004
Start is the same as for 200 Motels. More outstanding crack climbing, only better! Negotiate the chimney, but enter the left-hand crack. Jam to the top of the crack, then ~15 feet of easy (low 5th) face moves lead to rap slings. At the time of our ascent, we replace an old sling with some 1" tubular and added an additional rap ring. A double-rope rappel right down the clean face below gets you back to your gear. Retrace your steps back to the car...
From: Lyons, CO
Feb 11, 2007
This would be a four-star route if the route ended at the logical ending, not at the ugly sling wad at the top of the formation. We were thinking there should be bolts at the top of the crack, making for a perfect 35-meter pitch. As it is now, one must run it out to the top and try to find weathered slings while dragging along a second rope.
The pitch length in this database is a bit short. It is more like a 140 foot pitch. My 70 meter rope runs a bit long and I was just able to rap angling east and land at the start of Eureka, then do a bit of downclimbing to get to the start. I can usually rap 130 feet no problem with that rope.
|By Darren D.|
Mar 28, 2007
The sling-wad at the top is a bit of an eye-sore and I would have cut them all out if I had brought a knife. The down climb involves scrambling down a chimney off the back side, then head climbers right through a yucca. A really nice climb with good rock.
|By The Gray Tradster|
Jun 19, 2008
The "logical ending" is the top.
It's an easy and short scramble off to the right.
No need for any convenience anchors.
|By Bryan Davenport|
Mar 21, 2010
One of the best cracks I've climbed yet! Sustained and fun. We TR'ed after climbing the gully The approach took quite a bit more than 20-30 minutes though. With kids in tow, it took almost two hours. Without, I would give it a good hour + to get to the climb. That 'Yucca' is a pretty considerable obstacle in the gully now; any tips?
|By ramon thomson|
Apr 4, 2010
If you do some down climbing behind the formation to the climbers left there are some rap slings that get you back to the ledge the climb starts on with a 60 meter rope.just barely.
|By Tom Fralich|
From: Fresno, CA
Nov 27, 2010
This route and 200 Motels start with the same 40' of climbing. We climbed Taken for Granite and then rapped with a single 60m rope to the boulder at the top of the chimney (good belay). This allowed us to climb the independent portion of 200 Motels without reclimbing the shared start.
|By Kevin Dahlstrom|
From: Fort Worth, TX
Dec 9, 2012
This route and 200 Motels are good routes, not great and probably not worth the hike. No need to bring 2 ropes. A short down-climb off the back takes you to a slung boulder and a single 60 just barely gets you back to the base.
|By Trad Nanny|
Dec 28, 2012
Pretty easy for 5.8, yea cut the tat. I traversed (exposed) around to the anchors for Eureka for the rap.