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Rattlesnake Buttress
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Taken for Granite 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jeff Sewell, Larry Stone & Dave Bruckman, January 1979
Page Views: 6,336
Submitted By: AJ on Jan 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Following the alternative start to Taken for Grani...

Description 

This is the obvious left-arching crack splitting Rattlesnake Buttress. Start with a 5.8 boulder problem under a small roof. Climb a wide slot with a finger crack on the right for 30' to the top of a large block. From here, stay left in the beautiful hand/finger crack.

2 rope rap from slings or easy 5th class descent down gully behind the face.

Protection 

thin to 2.5"


Photos of Taken for Granite Slideshow Add Photo
Jonny flying up Taken For Granite. <br /> <br />4/08/08
Jonny flying up Taken For Granite.

4/08/08
My girlfriend onsighting Taken for Granite.  The finger crack is great, but the chimney is easier
My girlfriend onsighting Taken for Granite. The f...
Taken for Granite
BETA PHOTO: Taken for Granite
Me after leading the very cool alternative start.
Me after leading the very cool alternative start.

Comments on Taken for Granite Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 20, 2014
By David Evans
Nov 6, 2003
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Hey Jeff Sewell and Dave Bruckman, where are you guys these days? E-mail me!DE
By C Miller
Administrator
Nov 6, 2003

Jeff is in Georgia now -

rockclimbing.com/users/list.ph...

and I saw Boogleman at Williamson about a month ago. Where did you go Dave?
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 4, 2004

Start is the same as for 200 Motels. More outstanding crack climbing, only better! Negotiate the chimney, but enter the left-hand crack. Jam to the top of the crack, then ~15 feet of easy (low 5th) face moves lead to rap slings. At the time of our ascent, we replace an old sling with some 1" tubular and added an additional rap ring. A double-rope rappel right down the clean face below gets you back to your gear. Retrace your steps back to the car...
By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Feb 11, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This would be a four-star route if the route ended at the logical ending, not at the ugly sling wad at the top of the formation. We were thinking there should be bolts at the top of the crack, making for a perfect 35-meter pitch. As it is now, one must run it out to the top and try to find weathered slings while dragging along a second rope.

The pitch length in this database is a bit short. It is more like a 140 foot pitch. My 70 meter rope runs a bit long and I was just able to rap angling east and land at the start of Eureka, then do a bit of downclimbing to get to the start. I can usually rap 130 feet no problem with that rope.
By Darren D.
Mar 28, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The sling-wad at the top is a bit of an eye-sore and I would have cut them all out if I had brought a knife. The down climb involves scrambling down a chimney off the back side, then head climbers right through a yucca. A really nice climb with good rock.
By The Gray Tradster
Jun 19, 2008

The "logical ending" is the top.

It's an easy and short scramble off to the right.

No need for any convenience anchors.
By Bryan Davenport
From: 29palms
Mar 21, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

One of the best cracks I've climbed yet! Sustained and fun. We TR'ed after climbing the gully The approach took quite a bit more than 20-30 minutes though. With kids in tow, it took almost two hours. Without, I would give it a good hour + to get to the climb. That 'Yucca' is a pretty considerable obstacle in the gully now; any tips?
By ramon thomson
Apr 4, 2010

Bryan
If you do some down climbing behind the formation to the climbers left there are some rap slings that get you back to the ledge the climb starts on with a 60 meter rope.just barely.
By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 27, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route and 200 Motels start with the same 40' of climbing. We climbed Taken for Granite and then rapped with a single 60m rope to the boulder at the top of the chimney (good belay). This allowed us to climb the independent portion of 200 Motels without reclimbing the shared start.
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Dec 9, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route and 200 Motels are good routes, not great and probably not worth the hike. No need to bring 2 ropes. A short down-climb off the back takes you to a slung boulder and a single 60 just barely gets you back to the base.
By Tradoholic
Dec 28, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Pretty easy for 5.8, yea cut the tat. I traversed (exposed) around to the anchors for Eureka for the rap.
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Nov 16, 2013

I'm surprised that nobody mentioned the very large detached flake midway up. I tried to avoid it, but it is in the middle of everything and must be trusted. I found that it greatly detracted from the quality of this otherwise stellar climb. BTW: I began with the chimney start on the left and really enjoyed it.
By Phil Esra
Jan 2, 2014

Excellent for the grade. Worth the hike? Depends on how you feel about hiking. It takes a long time (30 minutes? ha!), and involves plenty of scrambling and route finding.

An exposed traverse gets you to the bolts at the top of Eureka, and a 70m rope gets you down (not sure about a 60). Doing the down-climb around the yucca is a little dicey--probably not recommended for a 5.8 leader. (But there's a great rail to climber's right if you're up for it.)
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
7 hours ago

near the top, traversed left onto the last big shoulder ledge before the top, placed a high piece to protect the second, then down easy terrain to the visible bolted rap anchor of Eureka

rap with one 70m rope, with about 20 ft on each strand to spare, so looks like a 60m would work too but involves an easy wide slot downclimb from an elevated ledge back down to the base ledge