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Take the Power Back 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Bonnie Von Grebe
Page Views: 404
Submitted By: Luke Clarke on Apr 9, 2006
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Chuck masters the crux roof of Take the Power Back...

Description 

This is an enjoyable pitch just to the right of Killing in the Name, and on a par with that line in difficulty.


Location 

The route is between Rush and Killing in the Name. In fact, you can clip the first bolt of Rush in a short right facing corner but move up and left in obvious cracks, instead of up the Rush slab.
A single rope is more than enough to lower from the anchors, as I believe is the case with all the routes.


Protection 

A single set of finger- and hand-size gear is adequate, with a draw for a bolt at the bottom and anchors at the top.



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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2006

There are two options going over the roof, either a weird slot on the right or a steep crack on the left. The climber in the photo appears to be straddling these two options, but it looks like he's headed for the left crack. The left crack is called a separate route in Rossiter's guide: "Crack In The Wall (10a)".

This climb is unusual in that there are several huecos on the face near that roof which make it easier. I was not expecting such face holds in granite and didn't see them until I got above them.