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Wizard's Gate
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Take Me to Your Leader 
Witchway Arete 
Wizard's Path 

Take Me to Your Leader 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jonathan Siegrist, 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,124
Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on Aug 23, 2009
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'I wanna top rope that, take me to your leader!'

Description 

You might want to empty your bladder before a lead on this stunning climb.

Move up a right-leaning ramp before reaching out left to the first holds and clip. Climb up a mostly featured slab and through increasingly technical ground to an overlap. Clip up and fire an awesome series of moves through a small arching corner. From a horizontal crack, clip up and take a few deep breaths before entering the technical (and mental) crux slab. This panel of rock is amazing and will surely leave a lasting impression on anyone who leads it. Finish on some enjoyable, moderate climbing for 3 bolts to the anchors.

This is an absolute classic that is reminiscent of the crux pitch on the alpine route, 'Spear Me the Details'.


Location 

This is on the right side of a large, beautiful slab next to Wizard's Path.


Protection 

9 bolts and chains.



Photos of Take Me to Your Leader Slideshow Add Photo
Bob Siegrist slabbing on Take Me to Your Leader.
Bob Siegrist slabbing on Take Me to Your Leader.
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By Dougald MacDonald
Aug 23, 2010

Classic and highly engaging face climbing. We thought the crux was the whole passage up to, through, and past the overlap. The blank panel above was technical and frightening, but slightly easier. I'd give this four stars except for the unnecessary run-out on this second crux; it would have been better to move the bolt lower and then let people place a piece in the horizontal crack above the panel. Still, an amazing climb. If this route is near your limit, like it was for me, you'll likely be somewhat shattered after a lead...don't plan to do much else the rest of the day!

By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 20, 2013

I managed to flash a bunch of routes here including the Magic Dagger (13a), and I still fell on this one. Tricky, sustained face climbing that's a bit licheny and hard to read due to the absence of chalk. Felt a wee bit run out in spots, too. Overall, a great route that will clean up nicely with some more ascents. May need a date with Mr. Brush. Enjoy!!