Take It For Granite
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BETA PHOTO: Take It For Granite (5.10c), Joshua Tree NP
Technical thin/finger crack with jamming and liebacking off the ground to a crux midway up the first crack easing to hands, followed by a large flat ledge and an easier short yet steep arching finger crack to the top. The pro is not great at the crux, but you can get some small brass there. The second should be solid for this one; the traverse out of the first crack to the ledge sets up a good-sized pendulum fall. Pumpy for the rating.
Facing Frontal Lobotomy, this route is about 50 yards to the left, up the gully (this is the obvious drainage left of Comic Book). It is easily visible as a clean crack that reaches the right side of a ledge at 2/3 height followed by another slightly arching crack starting at the center of the ledge and topping out.
Mostly thin to fingers with a hand-sized piece or two. Small brass can be useful at the crux.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 25, 2006
Fun route, but I was happy to be following rather than leading. Upper crack is pretty straightforward/secure. Recommended rack: doubles of Aliens/TCUs, singles from thin hands to hands, and a set of wires down to small brass. I thought this was quite a bit harder than the Vogel guide gives it.
From: Oak Park, CA
Oct 26, 2015
careful with any pro placed in the crux stretch of lower crack. the right side of the intermittent thin crevices consists of a long rib of fracturable, flexible, and yes, like someone has said in the tick comments, "crunchy" rock. no worries if cranking through without pro and with power to spare, but likely a ledge hit if a fall pops out one or more of those crux pros