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Wailing Sax Wall
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Wailing Sax 
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Take Five 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dimitri Barton, January 1988
Page Views: 471
Submitted By: Donno on Jun 9, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Wailing Sax Wall - West Face

Description 

This climb follows the dominant feature of the wall: a crack that goes up the middle of the wall and continues as two cracks as it goes thru a bulge/roof. An enjoyable route with good pro and fun moves thru the bulge.


Protection 

Small cams and a #3 to protect the roof. There is a hangerless bolt about 1/4 the way up. Rap anchor at top.



Photos of Take Five Slideshow Add Photo
Nathan Fitzhugh looking for pro in the lower section.
Nathan Fitzhugh looking for pro in the lower secti...
Brett sends Take Five.
Brett sends Take Five.
Comments on Take Five Add Comment
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 31, 2012

Our friend Meaty picked a good (yet obvious) line here. Route is fun climbing, takes great gear and cool moves over the roof. Nothing hard, tricky or weird about this thing. Just good clean fun! Bolted anchor makes for easy decent but could lead to people camping on it for the day.

By verticalbound
Apr 3, 2013

Great climb and lead good gear couple small pieces.

By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jan 1, 2014

If you're tall enough, you can cinch the bolt stud before committing to that move. Great nut placement next to the stud also once you step up.