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The Dihedrals
Routes Sorted
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Almost Nothing S 
Ancylostoma S 
Bookworm T,S 
Bunny Face S 
Captain Xenolith S 
Chain Reaction S 
Cinnamon Slab T 
Cognition  S 
Crossfire S 
Cry Babies S 
Darkness At Noon S 
Easy Reader S 
Evil Sister aka Ugly Sister S 
Flat Earth, The S 
Fox In Socks S 
French Connection T,S 
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Heinous Cling S 
Helium Woman S 
Karate Crack T 
Karate Wall (aka Powerline) S 
Karot Tots T 
Last Waltz S 
Latest Rage S 
Latin Lover S 
Left Slab Crack S 
Lichen It S 
Lycopodophyta T 
Middle Aged Vandal S 
Moondance S 
Moonshine Dihedral T 
Night Flight S 
Powder in the Eyes S 
Rabbit Stew T 
Rattlesnake Chimney T 
Rebirth S 
Right Slab Crack T 
Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut S 
Slow Burn T,S 
Sunshine Dihedral T 
Take a Powder S 
To Bolt Or Not To Be S 
Vision S 
Watts Totts S 
Wedding Day S 

Take a Powder 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Watts 87
Season: all
Page Views: 2,136
Submitted By: Ryan Palo on Mar 8, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A superb flake system leads you through the first four bolts. Technical face climbing ensues. The crux has gotten slightly harder since the FA as many key nubs have popped off. Very technical slab finish.

Location 

in between Powder in the eyes and Latin lover.

Protection 

9 bolts two bolt rap anchor


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By Wolfgang Braun
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Oct 15, 2008
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

This is a good route. The flake down low that looks easy, is far from it. Technical climbing all the way. Can step right to an off set a ways up to make the crux a bit easier.
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oct 19, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I'd stick clip the first bolt-- the first few moves on the flake are the most insecure. I found the crux to be significantly harder than Latin Lover's, but it's probably easier for those with smaller fingers.

As for the overall rating, I think it's slightly harder than the .12a version of Heinous Cling, making the .12b seem spot-on.
By ferrells
Jan 4, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I was expecting an easy lead on this one, and did not find one. What was I thinking? Technical, big fall potential, engrossing.

Certainly stick clip the first - that's the crux.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Jun 1, 2010

I'd disagree that the first moves are the crux. They are far from the most technically challenging moves on the route.