Take 5 5.11a/b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a/b [details] |
| FA: | Jeff Salow, Shane Zumpf |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Shane Zumpf on Sep 13, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Take 5 topo showing the 3 bolts and anchors. Note ...
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Description This is a great mixed climb starting just to the right of Intimidation behind an Aspen tree. The start is 5.10 fingers. Climb up to the horizontal and traverse right to the main crack that curves to the left then goes straight up. Climb the crack until it becomes a thin seam then goes to slab. 3 bolts protect the seam and slab section. The crux is moving over the first bolt.
Location This route is located on the west side of Blair III between Intimidation and Ledge of the World.
Protection Small cams (up to #2), nuts, and 3 quickdraws.
Jeff getting into the main crack system on Take 5.
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Shane following on the 5.10 fingers start of Take ...
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Shane working through the crux seam on take 5.
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BETA PHOTO: Fill in the blanks.
I made this sketch of our rou...
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A good variety of climbing is always best.
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By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Sep 14, 2009
| Great looking line. Amazing that it's gone unclimbed until now. |
By JoshuaTreeRunner
From: Los Angeles
Apr 7, 2010
| Sweet man on the FA! Will have to watch someone climb it if I get up there, since it's harder than I can climb. |
By Jeffery
From: Laramie, WY
Jun 5, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b
| This route has good moves and many challenges between the bolts. I am going to say that the route is roughly 11a/b. It is more difficult than Sketchy Palsy and the Electric Gypsy Moth, but only a little. It is well protected with a hard move then a clip to another hard move to another clip. The lower section protects will with medium sized cams and a couple small nuts. The start is challenging and I give it a 10a/b rating, so be carful. Use small cams or nuts for the start. |
By slim
Aug 23, 2010
rating: 5.11a/b
| This is a really nice route. We came in from the right crack (didn't even see the other crack behind the tree). The crack climbing is a little more awkward than it looks, which kind of made me wonder what getting out onto the face would be like. I usually hate leaving the relative security of a crack to venture out onto a slab. This all flowed pretty naturally though. Really nice climbing all the way to the chains.
Nice work equipping this one. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 12, 2011
rating: 5.11-
| Wear your edging shoes and watch your fingers! |
By chipacles
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.11-
| Very fun route! Nice mix of climbing with some difficult (for me at least!) crack climbing down low to some techy slab climbing up top (hard to see the holds and crystals after a good rain!). Well bolted!
Watch out for a loose, horizontally oriented flake as you top out under the anchors...I was trying to pull up onto the ledge and grabbed it, felt it flex, and so just pulled up without it.... |
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