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One Way Ticket, 5.11a, on the Clocktower, Long Don...

Description 

Taiwan is an island in the East China Sea 110 miles off the coast of Mainland China and astride the Tropic of Cancer. The island is roughly one-third the size of Tennessee, with a population of 23 million people. The primary language is Mandarin Chinese, with Taiwanese and Hakkanese dialects also used.

Unlike most Pacific islands which are volcanic, Taiwan is tectonic in origin, and its central mountain range is loaded with wilderness peaks up to 13,000 feet. The highest peak, Yushan, is 3,952m and features an impressive-looking north face with various alpine challenges.

Rock climbing areas in Taiwan including Guanzhiling (limestone sport climbing in Chiayi County), bouldering in and around Taroko Gorge National Park (on the east coast), Dapaoyan (good volcanic cragging on small cliffs at Yangmingshan, a mountain park on the north side of Taipei city), and riverbed bouldering areas in the mountains of Hsinchu and Miaoli counties. The centerpiece of Taiwan rock climbing, however, is Long Dong (“dragon’s cave” in Chinese), with over a mile of wave-battered, sun-baked sea cliffs of very compact Silin sandstone on the beautifully rugged northeast coast of the island.

Getting There 

Fly to Taipei Taoyuan International Airport (TPE) from anywhere in the world. If you’re already in Asia, Taipei is one hour from Hong Kong, two hours from Shanghai or Manila, and about three from Bangkok or Tokyo. Visitors from many countries are, as of 2009, granted free landing visa upon arrival (30 days for U.S. citizens).

The Classics

Featured Route For Taiwan

The Prow 5.10  International : Asia : ... : Qijin Island

Jump the railing down to the beach. This route climbs the first clean face you encounter. Belay next to a large boulder sticking out of the sand. The first bolt is really high (5m), but the climbing is very easy. The route quickly becomes overhanging. Leave the jugs of the crack and move right through big pockets and mantel into the easier middle section. Follow the bolts to the final overhang, move quickly through it, and finish by using the arete. Alternatively, stay on the face til the anchor...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Taiwan Slideshow

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View of Long Dong, Taiwan from the south.	View of Long Dong, Taiwan looking south.	Peihua Wu on Cunning Linguist, 5.10d, at the Catho...
Yushan, the highest mountain in Taiwan, sees a lot...	(Mar 2005) On Yushan south ridge, the greatest alp...