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Big Cannon Cliff 
Guanziling 
Long Dong (Dragon Cave) 
Mt Dabajian 
Qijin Island 
Rehai 
Shoushan 
Yushan (Mt Jade) 

Taiwan 


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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: ccchien1973 on May 28, 2009

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One Way Ticket, 5.11a, on the Clocktower, Long Don...

Description 

Taiwan is an island in the East China Sea 110 miles off the coast of Mainland China and astride the Tropic of Cancer. The island is roughly one-third the size of Tennessee, with a population of 23 million people. The primary language is Mandarin Chinese, with Taiwanese and Hakkanese dialects also used.

Unlike most Pacific islands which are volcanic, Taiwan is tectonic in origin, and its central mountain range is loaded with wilderness peaks up to 13,000 feet. The highest peak, Yushan, is 3,952m and features an impressive-looking north face with various alpine challenges.

Rock climbing areas in Taiwan including Guanzhiling (limestone sport climbing in Chiayi County), bouldering in and around Taroko Gorge National Park (on the east coast), Dapaoyan (good volcanic cragging on small cliffs at Yangmingshan, a mountain park on the north side of Taipei city), and riverbed bouldering areas in the mountains of Hsinchu and Miaoli counties. The centerpiece of Taiwan rock climbing, however, is Long Dong (“dragon’s cave” in Chinese), with over a mile of wave-battered, sun-baked sea cliffs of very compact Silin sandstone on the beautifully rugged northeast coast of the island.


Getting There 

Fly to Taipei Taoyuan International Airport (TPE) from anywhere in the world. If you’re already in Asia, Taipei is one hour from Hong Kong, two hours from Shanghai or Manila, and about three from Bangkok or Tokyo. Visitors from many countries are, as of 2009, granted free landing visa upon arrival (30 days for U.S. citizens).


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Taiwan:
Staircase   5.4     Trad, 80 feet   Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : School Gate
Kevlar Vest   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : Golden Valley
Fucking Fall   5.10d     Sport, 55 feet   Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : Music Hall
First Corner   5.12a     Sport, 85 feet   Long Dong (Dragon Cave) : School Gate
Browse More Classics in Taiwan

Featured Route For Taiwan
The Prow from the boardwalk

The Prow 5.10  International : Asia : ... : Qijin Island
Jump the railing down to the beach. This route climbs the first clean face you encounter. Belay next to a large boulder sticking out of the sand. The first bolt is really high (5m), but the climbing is very easy. The route quickly becomes overhanging. Leave the jugs of the crack and move right through big pockets and mantel into the easier middle section. Follow the bolts to the final overhang, move quickly through it, and finish by using the arete. Alternatively, stay on the face til the anchor...[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of Taiwan Slideshow Add Photo
View of Long Dong, Taiwan from the south.

View of Long Dong, Taiwan from the south.

View of Long Dong, Taiwan looking south.

View of Long Dong, Taiwan looking south.

Peihua Wu on Cunning Linguist, 5.10d, at the Cathouse, Long Dong, Taiwan.

Peihua Wu on Cunning Linguist, 5.10d, at the Catho...

Yushan, the highest mountain in Taiwan, sees a lot of alpine climbing opportunities in very good alpine seasons

Yushan, the highest mountain in Taiwan, sees a lot...

(Mar 2005) On Yushan south ridge, the greatest alpine scene in Taiwan

(Mar 2005) On Yushan south ridge, the greatest alp...


Comments on Taiwan Add Comment
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By Matt Robertson
May 28, 2009

Long Dong currently has around 500 routes on high quality sandstone up to 70 meters high, including sport routes (5.5 to 5.14a), trad up to 5.12c, and bouldering. The area is on the Northeast Coast of Taiwan about 45 minutes from central Taipei City, and also offers great swimming and diving, hiking, amazing seafood and friendly Taiwanese culture.

By Ta-Chi Wang
May 29, 2009

To get a first look about this fabulous area and its quality of climbing, see 'Rock Climbing in Taiwan', by Matt Robertson: www.climbstone.com/

Hope some of my Taiwanese friends will start to put here their own photos and comments of their favorite routes at Dragon Cave.

By Jay W.
Feb 22, 2012

I'm thinking of moving to Taipei in a few months. Can anyone recommend a good climbing gym in the city, preferably one that offers lead climbing options?

By Danger
From: Taipei City
Mar 4, 2012

Yeah, there's quite a few gyms and outdoor walls in Taipei depending on where you live.

Matt's site is still the best info about Long Dong, but for everything else about Taiwan Rock climbing & bouldering from Gyms to walls to Climbing gear shops, check out my newly launched site TaiwanRocks.net