One Way Ticket, 5.11a, on the Clocktower, Long Don...
Taiwan is an island in the East China Sea 110 miles off the coast of Mainland China and astride the Tropic of Cancer. The island is roughly one-third the size of Tennessee, with a population of 23 million people. The primary language is Mandarin Chinese, with Taiwanese and Hakkanese dialects also used.
Unlike most Pacific islands which are volcanic, Taiwan is tectonic in origin, and its central mountain range is loaded with wilderness peaks up to 13,000 feet. The highest peak, Yushan, is 3,952m and features an impressive-looking north face with various alpine challenges.
Rock climbing areas in Taiwan including Guanzhiling (limestone sport climbing in Chiayi County), bouldering in and around Taroko Gorge National Park (on the east coast), Dapaoyan (good volcanic cragging on small cliffs at Yangmingshan, a mountain park on the north side of Taipei city), and riverbed bouldering areas in the mountains of Hsinchu and Miaoli counties. The centerpiece of Taiwan rock climbing, however, is Long Dong (“dragon’s cave” in Chinese), with over a mile of wave-battered, sun-baked sea cliffs of very compact Silin sandstone on the beautifully rugged northeast coast of the island.
Fly to Taipei Taoyuan International Airport (TPE) from anywhere in the world. If you’re already in Asia, Taipei is one hour from Hong Kong, two hours from Shanghai or Manila, and about three from Bangkok or Tokyo. Visitors from many countries are, as of 2009, granted free landing visa upon arrival (30 days for U.S. citizens).
Browse More Classics in Taiwan
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Taiwan:
Featured Route For Taiwan
: ... : Grand Auditorium
Aruba refers to a Taiwanese schoolyard pastime involving the use of trees/poles/building-corners/etc to inflict trauma upon the victim's genital region.This is an ultra-wicked 35m route that feels and is quite adventurous. The route is isolated to a tall "clean" wall of the Grand Auditorium's north face, which takes some getting to. Bringing some trad gear (cams from small to 2" and nuts) is highly recommended - this whole route can be easily protected traditionally. Start at the middle...[more] Browse More Classics in International
View of Long Dong, Taiwan from the south.
View of Long Dong, Taiwan looking south.
Peihua Wu on Cunning Linguist, 5.10d, at the Catho...
Yushan, the highest mountain in Taiwan, sees a lot...
(Mar 2005) On Yushan south ridge, the greatest alp...
|By Matt Robertson|
May 28, 2009
Long Dong currently has around 500 routes on high quality sandstone up to 70 meters high, including sport routes (5.5 to 5.14a), trad up to 5.12c, and bouldering. The area is on the Northeast Coast of Taiwan about 45 minutes from central Taipei City, and also offers great swimming and diving, hiking, amazing seafood and friendly Taiwanese culture.
|By Ta-Chi Wang|
May 29, 2009
To get a first look about this fabulous area and its quality of climbing, see 'Rock Climbing in Taiwan', by Matt Robertson: www.climbstone.com/
Hope some of my Taiwanese friends will start to put here their own photos and comments of their favorite routes at Dragon Cave.
|By Jay W.|
Feb 22, 2012
I'm thinking of moving to Taipei in a few months. Can anyone recommend a good climbing gym in the city, preferably one that offers lead climbing options?
From: Taipei City
Mar 4, 2012
Yeah, there's quite a few gyms and outdoor walls in Taipei depending on where you live.
Matt's site is still the best info about Long Dong, but for everything else about Taiwan Rock climbing & bouldering from Gyms to walls to Climbing gear shops, check out my newly launched site TaiwanRocks.net