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Taivallista 

Taivallista 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jeff Lowe, Bruce Roghaar, 1970 Probable FFA: Noah Bigwood and Kris Dockstader 2006
Page Views: 2,134
Submitted By: jonathan knight on Aug 28, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: The blue line is Taivallista.

Description 

This is an excellent route that will be a classic once it cleans up a bit. It works fairly well to climb it in 3 pitches. The first pitch is probably easy 5.10. The roof on the second pitch is the crux while the upper roof on pitch three has been climbed by two variations, both around mid 5.10.


Location 

Located on the third buttress of the wall, it climbs a direct line just looker's right of the arete, through two, prominent roofs.


Protection 

A standard rack with a good selection of small cams and wires is all you need. Doubles in some sizes are handy for constructing the belays. There is a pretty good looking 1/4" bolt above the roof on the last pitch.



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crux pitch
crux pitch
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By Ari Menitove
Jul 19, 2009

Fun route. Indeed, as it continues to clean up with traffic, it is just going to get better. It was a little tricky for us to find exactly where the route begins. It starts in a left facing corner with a clean crack. If you look up about 70 feet, you can see an unusually rectangular roof with a black spot near its center. Just above and right of this roof is a triangular tiered roof feature formed by two intersecting seams. Hope that helps.

By Rob Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 7, 2010

we went right at the big roof on pitch three, pulling the roof through juggy hand jams. this route will get quite a bit better if it cleans up a bit more, but the hard parts are clean enough.

By CalmAdrenaline
From: SL,UT
Sep 16, 2010

Spicy buttcrack micro nut/cam lichen encrusted flare before the first roof. One of the best looking lines in the Cirque. Nice onsight Rob.

By Rob Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 15, 2011

Curious, anyone know the meaning of the name 'Taivallista?' could it be a latin soap opera? enquiring minds would love some Wasatch history

By Drew Thayer
From: Durango, CO
Aug 12, 2012

Great route! Really inspired line. Crux is interesting and protects well with small offset nuts, C3s and aliens. Climbed in 4 pitches, one in the 1st L-facing dihedral, one above crux roof, one above final big roof (we pulled it on right on jams and jugs) and up a slab past an old bolt, one short 5.easy pitch to top.

By bsmoot
Aug 12, 2012

Hey Rob:

Jeff said the name, "Taivallista means heavenly in Danish".

By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jul 19, 2013

Excellent route that is getting cleaned up. We pulled off a few small blocks on the route, and cleaned a few sections of cracks on the way up.