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The Right Wall
Routes Sorted
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A Wonderful Life T 
American Caesar T 
Aquarius Rising T 
Barbarian Rising T 
Bootlegger, The T 
Brother From Another Mother AKA B-FAM S 
Brother Of Fortune T 
Consensual Hex T 
Crescent Moon T 
Donald Duckin It T,S 
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Harder They Come, The T 
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Natural Enhancement T 
No Feelings T 
No Utopia T 
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Resurrection T 
Rice Paddy Ambush T 
Smilin' Jay T 
Snap Happy S 
Soldier of Fortune T 
Soul Market T 
Starry Night T 
Sweet Dreams T 
Tainted Love T 
Trident, The T 
Turn Down, For What? T 
Wasp Whisperer T 

Tainted Love 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest
New Route: Yes
Season: Most
Page Views: 1,076
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jun 15, 2009

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Keith Beckley powering through the crux on his ons...

Description 

Tainted Love is a classic pitch with a unique flavor, and shares the start with Barbarian Rising. Enjoy interesting climbing up solid blocks to gain small hand/hand crack in open dihedral filled with wonderful stemming. Turn roof on the left with holds that will make you smile, and take a plank rest.

From the rest stance, head left to obvious jug rail and bolts, then continue to look for holds around the left side of the arete. From there, you have to really start cranking. The upper section is either brutally physical, or devilishly technical; pick your poison. Total of five bolts from the rest to the top.

Location 

To the Left of Barbarian Rising. Shares start with that route.

Protection 

A good selection of small hands to hands sized pieces. Single set of small/medium Tcus. Small wires at the top optional.


Photos of Tainted Love Slideshow Add Photo
Josh Janes nailing the moves on his onsight second ascent.
Josh Janes nailing the moves on his onsight second...
Janes making it happen on a well played, onsight second ascent!
Janes making it happen on a well played, onsight s...
Josh, enjoying the view on an onsight second ascent!
Josh, enjoying the view on an onsight second ascen...
Keith savoring the last bit.
Keith savoring the last bit.

Comments on Tainted Love Add Comment
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By Clay Mansfield
Jan 31, 2014

The bolted climbing up top is beautiful. A must-do if you love arete climbing.