This is a pretty little undercut finger crack. Start sitting down on the obvious rock with your fingers in the very first two jams, one a bomber full finger at the bottom of the pod at the lip and the other in the smaller but still bomber finger pod just down from it. The meat of this problem is stuffing your tips into the crack while your feet are still underneath the roof on little edges. Tall people will probably find the first move dabtastic and annoying, but as for myself I had plenty of room to do what was necessary.
It is right at the base of Screw at Valley Massif, facing the formation.
One really thin pad to go over the rock at the lip in order to protect your tailbone. You could also have a friend slide a larger pad under you once you get past the first few moves.
|By Justin Edl|
Jul 6, 2009
I know plenty of people have tried this, though no one I talked to had done it before, though it is a very obvious line. If you did this already, let me know and I will update it appropriately.