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19 - New Diversions
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Burst of Brilliance T 
Chicken Pie T 
Cock Tart S 
Jugs T 
New Deviations T 
New Diversions T 
Shake, Rattle, and Drop T 
Strangers In the Night T 
Tail End T 
Wasp T 

Tail End 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: George Meyers - 1975
Page Views: 455
Submitted By: Osprey Overhang on Mar 11, 2010

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


I'm posting this climb because the top half is a great 2" hand crack that goes at 5.6 It is rare to find a beginner climb like this that is low angle down in the river canyon. So if Swan Slab is too crowded in the early spring, you just don't want to go to Knob Hill, or the cliff up and left of Little Wing is just too long of a walk, come and do this line.

Climb an unattractive, chocky, left facing corner to a nice flat ledge. Continue up left around a tree in the slammer hand crack. The top slabs out but the crack continues.


This route is the last climb on the right side of the cliff. Pass Chicken Pie, walk around a large boulder, and pass a small gully which is actually the dirty Chimney for Two. Tail End begins up a chocky left facing corner.


Single set of friends to #3. Extra #2 - #2.5 pieces. Slings.

Natural anchor on top. Walk off to the right.

Try to pass underneath the tree to avoid rope drag if you can.

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By nkane
Nov 2, 2015

The hand crack/layback at the top is not worth the mossy bushwacking necessary to reach it. I don't have particularly high standards for routes, but I can't recommend this one. Unless you enjoy filling your shirt and shoes with moss fragments.

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