Aaron Cassebeer on Upper Royal's Arch. Photo: Vick...
Tahquitz Rock is the larger of the two crags above the town of Idyllwild and offers primarily traditional climbing from one to seven pitches in length.
Please note this is a traditional crag and although sport routes do exist they are the exception. It's important to keep in mind that even fully bolted routes requiring nothing more than quickdraws tend to be runout and somewhat serious leads.
See the overview directions on how to reach Humber Park. Once at Humber Park locate the start of the Ernie Maxwell Scenic Trail, which starts just past the Adventure Pass sign at a sharp left-hand turn. Follow the trail as it descends a small hill, makes a horseshoe bend and crosses a seasonal stream before leveling out and heading south. A few hundred yards down the trail you'll encounter a climber sign-in box, from which the climber's trail splits off and ascends the steep hillside to the base of Tahquitz. Plan on 30-60 minutes for the approach depending upon your degree of fitness and which portion of the rock you're aiming for.
Browse More Classics in Tahquitz Rock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tahquitz Rock:
Featured Route For Tahquitz Rock
: Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks
: ... : West Face - Right Side
This route starts just before you start going back up hill to Open Book. P1: Climb an awesome 5.7 layback crack to a tree. P2: Climb over blocks (20') then angle up and left. Angle left 15' before the crack ends. Step around a corner and belay on a little stance below a roof. P3: Climb over the left side of the roof, and go up to lunch ledge. P4: Climb up and finish on 5.4 runout friction slab (1 bolt)....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, Ca.
Cool view of Tahquitz from Devil's Slide trail. L...
Chris near the top of the second pitch of "Open Bo...
A view of the trail... plan on a 30-50 minute hike...
Tahquitz Rock from Humber Park(ing lot), Idyllwild
I added this pic to show the distance of the hike ...
Kim, and Brett gearing up.
Jonny looking over bet...
BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz
An old wooden piton found by Todd Gordon on the se...
Tahquitz summit - late afternoon
Sunset over Tahquitz Rock.
Amazing sunset at Tahquitz
Amazing sunset at Tahquitz
BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz Rock overview.
The sign at the entrance to Humber Park(ing lot), ...
Getting closer, Tahquitz Rock
BETA PHOTO: Ernie Maxwell Scenic Trail sign, Humber Park
The Penny Tree is right off the trail and not far ...
BETA PHOTO: Tahquitz Rock from the Google eye.
BETA PHOTO: The West Face of Lunch Rock, Tahquitz Rock.
The new Tahquitz approach trail marker.
Jeff Laina and J. Gregg Studying the Guidebook at ...
|Comments on Tahquitz Rock
|By Bruce Diffenbaugh|
Feb 12, 2008
Please NOTE; This is a Historical climbing area! Do not add ANY fixed protection to ANY existing route! Fixed Pins,Bolts and or Anchor replacement should ONLY be done by those with knowledge of the area and its history. PLEASE RESPECT THIS. Have a good day and enjoy the climbing.
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Mar 19, 2009
There are few sights in California climbing more exciting than your first view of Tahquitz Rock. I still remember driving up early in the morning. I was still a young teen punk and the morning mist hung low. The first glimpse we really got was the view of the open book from the town. On the one hand it cries out: "come and get me!" On the other hand you can't help but remember all the historical figures that first cut their teeth here. You must look at and approach this place with a certain degree of respect and awe. I miss it so much!
|By Bruce Diffenbaugh|
May 4, 2009
Climbers, please stick to this trail in accessing the climbs on northwest, west, and south sides of Tahquitz so that erosion damage can be minimized. And encourage your friends to do likewise.
|By Jim Dover|
From: Temecula, Ca
Oct 3, 2011
Tahquitz FA list in chronological order (not that it matters to anyone but I was curious). If you notice errors or want to contribute to this list, email me.
1. The Trough 5.4, 8/36
2. Angel's Fright 5.6, 9/36
3. Fingertip Traverse 5.3, 9/36
4. Piton Pooper 5.7, 9/36
5. White Maiden's Walkway 5.4, 8/37
6. Mechanic's Route 5.8R, 10/37
7. Jensen's Jaunt 5.6, 8/38
8. From Bad Traverse 5.6, 9/39
9. Northeast Rib 5.0 10/40
10. Traitor Horn 5.8, 1941
11. Sahara Terror 5.7, 7/42
12. Fingertrip 5.7, 9/46
13. Fingergrip 5.8, 6/47
14. Left Ski Track 5.6, 9/47
15. The Open Book 5.9, 9/47
16. Climb With No Beginning 5.6, 5/50
17. Swing Sling Traverse 5.9 9/51
Apr 26, 2012
nice list jim, it would be cool to see them all in order. what about suicide rock?
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Aug 27, 2012
Agreed great list Jim - puts a new perspective on things. One often doesn't see the FA list published like this in US guidebooks, but it was a standard practice in the UK CC guidebooks and often included historical comments form the first ascents.
Nov 8, 2012
nice list Jim. I would love to see the list build from here and see one on suicide too.