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Tahquitz isn't for beginners
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By Josh Cameron
May 17, 2012
Castleton Summit Sunset

My preference is for climbers to learn outside. It seems climbers who learn outside are more safety conscious and self-sufficient, while in a gym most every safety aspect except tying in is done for you.


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By claudio ricardez
From ESCONDIDO
May 17, 2012
Mt. Woodson

I can see your point there. I believe there are pros and cons to both, ultimately we all need to take the self responsibility to be safe no matter who or where we are.
I've been to Taqhuitz once and climbed a 5.5 (Angels Fright)as a second that in some areas I think I would have been pretty scared on lead. Perhaps I was not as experienced then on multi pitch so that may have contributed to it, but it still felt harder than other 5.5s I have done on more recently developed areas.
I would not recommend going as a total newb by oneself.


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By Josh Cameron
May 17, 2012
Castleton Summit Sunset

That is true. Like I said earlier, I'm surprised I didn't get myself killed their when I was just still learning. As for the ratings, The Trough was originally rated 5.0 and over the years it's rating has been creeping up. Now the current guidebook rates it as 5.4+ but its easily a 5.5 or a 5.6 if it were at other climbing areas. Tahquitz is stout for the grade!


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By Rob Selter
From running springs Ca
May 17, 2012
me

Tahquitz still isn't for beginners? Even if they crush 5.6d?


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
May 17, 2012

Josh Cameron wrote:
but its easily a 5.5 or a 5.6 if it were at other climbing areas. Tahquitz is stout for the grade!


You are aware that the YDS was born at Tahquitz, right? The original ratings of those early climbs ARE the standard, all these other areas where they would be rated harder are just soft-like-kitten areas.


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By RNclimber
From Riverside, Ca
May 17, 2012
Seconds before onsighting Gun Smoke V3, Joshua Tree bouldering

Josh Cameron wrote:
Now the current guidebook rates it as 5.4+ but its easily a 5.5 or a 5.6 if it were at other climbing areas. Tahquitz is stout for the grade!


What Will S said. Tahquitz has the first 5.XX of certain ratings like the first 5.9 in the World. There is no stout grades here. They ARE the actually grade.


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By JonM
May 17, 2012
On the descent of the West Ridge of Conness

I learned to climb at Tahquitz / Suicide and I look forward to going back there many times.
I will probably always be a beginner.

"In the beginner's mind there are many possibilities, in the expert's mind there are few."
Shunryu Suzuki


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By Andrew Rivera
May 18, 2012
climbing on an old dam

Rob Selter wrote:
Tahquitz still isn't for beginners? Even if they crush 5.6d?


HAHAHA love it


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By Chris D
From the couch
May 21, 2012
Sign near the Third Flatiron

Rob Selter wrote:
Tahquitz still isn't for beginners? Even if they crush 5.6d?


Taking a group of folks up the Maiden yesterday, as I pulled those couple of funky moves above the ring pin on P3, I couldn't help but think...

"THANK GOD I CRUSH 5.7"

So no, 5.6d won't cut it.


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By Chris D
From the couch
May 22, 2012
Sign near the Third Flatiron

My last post elicited this eloquent reply from the OP, via PM:

"if you crush 5.7 why take people up
white maidens (probably the worst route on the rock?) I think you are the person this posting was for...keep your gumby ass and your friends off of our rock asshole. By the way their is a reason experienced people dont climb in
the freeze/thaw zone this time of year
as you may have heard of the rock fall on "the trough". I bet you felt like a
"stonemaster" leading that group but that doesnt make you a leader anymore than bagging on the people who are."


Some people have no sense of humor. But this ingenious missive from Eric Coffman got me thinking... I'm pretty sure I've seen this dude at Tahquitz before...

I got some pictures a couple of times:

Mountin' Lyin'
Mountin' Lyin'


Then once while following P2 on Fingertrip:

Mountin' Lyin' 2
Mountin' Lyin' 2


And then on the Long/Wong linkup last fall:

mountin lyin 3
mountin lyin 3


In case you doubt that that is, indeed, the mountainlion, here's a video of him pulling down at the Thin Wall in Josh. You'll see the resemblance, I'm sure.

Next he'll be collecting a toll to use the friction descent... At the very least he should be charging for sharing info about what part of Tahquitz is in the "freeze/thaw zone." Lord only knows where that might be, since only parts of the rock are subject to freezing temperatures. Oh, wait...

On a more serious note, the Maiden, far from "the worst route on the rock" is an awesome route for new climbers. Among the six people in our three-rope team, four had never climbed a multi-pitch before. Along with a bunch of other people in front of and behind us, we managed to enjoy ourselves without bothering a single elitist douchebag like Eric Coffman.

Sorry dude...take your self-important nonsense to some other crag. Nobody needs your advice at Tahquitz. People have been getting themselves in and out of trouble there for years. Your brilliant unsolicited advice is neither wanted nor needed.

Also, please don't send me any more cowardly emails. Share your stupidity with everyone here. It's more fun that way.


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By Chris D
From the couch
May 22, 2012
Sign near the Third Flatiron

hahaha...

Well, apparently the mountainlion forgot how to post. Another semi-literate email received today:

"I stand by my posting
bagging on people whose only goal is to help prevent injuries and death means you are not
a leader. By the way lets see a video of you if you aren't to cowardly to post it on you tube
"

Oh man, don't say you didn't ask for it. I'll post it right here!

Feast your eyes on this delight; me, brand new to climbing, out of shape, flailing, huffing, and puffing on the start of The Flake in Joshua Tree...for like 5 minutes. You gotta be brave to share video like this:



Yee Haw! Man, mix in a few salads, fat boy...

I guess I don't need to stroke my ego with videos of myself leading some dinky .10a that I have wired or better yet...Eric Coffman CRUSHING 5.1 while soloing THE EYE!:



What a stallion.


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By FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
May 22, 2012

Right on Chris, for posting that video of you! Reminds me of...me! I usually throw in a few profanities when I'm struggling. It seems to help.


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By Tom Mulholland
From #1 Cheese Producing State!
May 23, 2012
Whiskey-a-Go-Go

I've been grumbling for the last few weeks about how there aren't any entertaining threads anymore, but I was Oh so wrong. Thank you.


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By x15x15
May 24, 2012

ChrisD wrote: Eric Coffman CRUSHING...oxymoron... it all makes sense now that we all know who this mountainlyin dhude is... more like a hangdoggin, sprayin, mountainmouse...

were you on white maidens on sunday? i ran into someone who had a crew who never climbed tahquitz before.


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By Greg D
From Here
May 24, 2012
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />

Did someone take the time to video a 5.4 route and put in on youtube?
Even worse. I just watched a video of someone climbing a 5.4 route? Fuck me. Watching golf would have been better.


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By Chris D
From the couch
May 24, 2012
Sign near the Third Flatiron

x15x15 wrote:
were you on white maidens on sunday? i ran into someone who had a crew who never climbed tahquitz before.


We were there on Saturday...A group of three two-person ropes which became a four-person rope and a two-person rope midway. Ha! Ironically, the only thing that slowed us down (no worries, we got a late start) was the three-person rope in front of us...that is, until they made a 50-foot unprotected traverse on the fourth pitch that probably took them somewhere near fool's rush.

It was so funny I had to take a picture of it. Look near the top of this photo (taken right before the doubtful corner) to see that traverse. Ha! As I climbed straight up past where their third had just started the traverse, she asked "oh, are we off route?" I was like "oh, no worries...I've been over there, it's easy." :) Pictures of our noob parade are here.

I love that route...it was one of my earliest leads (single or multipitch) and I've taken plenty of noobs up it. More than one has told me after the fact over a cold one that it was one of the most exciting things they'd ever done. How can you beat that? To me, that's what climbing is all about.

Tahquitz is a great place. This weekend I'll be on Angels Fright with a friend and his 11-year old son, and we can take our time without being in anyone's way. I'm sure that I'll get to watch some folks testing themselves on the Vampire while I belay the upper pitches. If not, I can enjoy the great scenery and the swifts zipping around. Always a great day up there.


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By kevin deweese
From walnut creek, ca
May 24, 2012
don't throw rocks

Chris D wrote:
Feast your eyes on this delight; me, brand new to climbing, out of shape, flailing, huffing, and puffing on the start of The Flake in Joshua Tree...for like 5 minutes.


+1,000,000 F*cking win man. Love the get'em style.


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By Josh Cameron
May 25, 2012
Castleton Summit Sunset

Hi Will S.,
Yes, I do understand that the YDS was begun at Tahquitz and that The Trough is probably the first climb at Tahquitz. Just making a commentary on how those grades are stout compared to other places.

Yet, for argument's sake, if more beginners climbed at Tahquitz perhaps we would have tougher climbers in the world. Just a thought.


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By x15x15
May 31, 2012

dang. mountainlyin's recent thread was removed, before i could clarify some of his malicious lies and slander.

Dear Eric,
1st. i don't live in the town i grew up in. you were making fun of your friends that i taught to climb, not me...that's weak...

2nd. yes, i do live near my mom and dad, but they moved to be closer to me. guess you don't know what its like to love mom and dad...

3rd. i've seen you climb, you suck.

4th. my life has been one adventure after another, and i don't live off of my wife...

and FINALLY... i have lived up and down the west coast, from AK to Huntington Beach and plenty in between, but the philippines is a great place for a 5.7 crusher like you...

later skater...


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By agd
May 31, 2012
alaska

Josh Cameron wrote:
My preference is for climbers to learn outside. It seems climbers who learn outside are more safety conscious and self-sufficient, while in a gym most every safety aspect except tying in is done for you.


Some gyms make you clip a locker to your belay loop.


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By Unassigned User
Jun 5, 2012

Tahquitz is great for beginners!!! Just Kidding. Me and my buddy went out and tackled WMW for our second Trad multi-pitch ever. It was heady at times, we got off route, scared ourselves to death, and past one party that bailed. If you are a confident leader and know how to look ahead and make good decisions on the rock then go climb there. I loved every pitch of it!


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By Chris D
From the couch
Jun 6, 2012
Sign near the Third Flatiron

Jonathan,

Be sure to wait until you CRUSH 5.7 before you return to attempt such routes as Fingertip Traverse, The Trough, The Left Ski Track, Jensen's Jaunt, The Larks, etc.

Failing to do so could result in dangerous levels of excitement, overnight epics, and even potentially upsetting those who are certifiable CRUSHERS of 5.7.

I'm just sayin'


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By Unassigned User
Jun 7, 2012

Chris D wrote:
Jonathan, Be sure to wait until you CRUSH 5.7 before you return to attempt such routes as Fingertip Traverse, The Trough, The Left Ski Track, Jensen's Jaunt, The Larks, etc. Failing to do so could result in dangerous levels of excitement, overnight epics, and even potentially upsetting those who are certifiable CRUSHERS of 5.7. I'm just sayin'



Thanks Chris I will work harder... I am just learning how to crush the one 5.7 in my gym. Do you think once I get to the top of that I am good enough? Right now I have to hang half way up to get the pump out. Also why does my gym only cater to those who climb HARD like 5.9 how am I supposed to learn without some 5.5's?


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By William Nelson
From Cave Creek, AZ
Jun 16, 2012

Chris, awesome vimeo on The Flake. Looks like 5.8 was crushing you and vice versa. Re: NOOBS. I don't know of a better place for multi-pitch trad beginner. As long as they can climb a ladder onto a first story roof and smear to the peak, they can do the Trough. After crushing that successfully, they're ready for Tahquitz/Suicide's awesome array of multi-pitch moderates (Angel Fright, Left Ski Track, White Maiden Walkway, Fingertrip/tip, Sahara Terror, El Whampo, Graham Cracker, etc) that arguably as good as you'll find anywhere. So, if you can CRUSH lead 5.7a+ PG (or 5.6a- for you Gunky hardmen) or pull 5.12+ overhung in the gym, plug a crack with gear, and set up an anchor and belay, it doesn't get much better. I just read this entire thread and it's hilarious. BTW, last time at Tqhquitz, we met another party at the summit. We used friction descent and they rapped the Open Book (bad idea). We beat them down to lunch rock by a bunch.


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By T. Stark
From Los Angeles, CA
Jul 19, 2012
Rubicon direct "R" start (well the direct start that's not directly in the plants at least) <br />Photo by Rob Miramontes

William Nelson wrote:
Re: NOOBS. I don't know of a better place for multi-pitch trad beginner... I just read this entire thread and it's hilarious...


Late to the party here but I did my first multi-pitch lead at Tahquitz when I was 13 and no dropped rocks nor gear. Gotta learn somewhere people.


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