If you get up early enough, you never have to wait in line or worry about an ATC hitting you on your noggin or scree dust getting in your eyeballs. Sometimes the first pitch can be slippery from condensation though. Take the good with the bad.

To the OP- Every place is for inexperienced climbers. For example, newcomers to outdoor sport climbing that "crush gym .11s" will often come to NRG asking for a "good .9 or low .10 (at a crag where these routes are the vast minority) to warm up on". Most of these folks get humbled and find that outside the first time they are at their limit at around 9+. Most of us learn by making mistakes. Especially when making the mistake involves a healthy element of risk and fear. You've probably learned a thing or two yourself that way too.

Now, as a more experienced climber and a "local", you have a few options. Option A, which you have chosen, is to feign wisdom and profess to everyone else that you know best and that you know who should be climbing which routes at which crags without ever having gotten to know the climbers you're referring to or making an attempt to discern more than a guess about their actual abilities. I've seen a guy that has been climbing for 10 yrs and onsights .11- drop his ATC. It happens.

Option B- As a local and someone that frequents the crag and knows the routes pretty well, get to know these people that might become regular faces. If they are unsafe, try to get them to see why they are unsafe, and maybe point them in the right direction to being safer. You almost never see a forum post that starts with "totally helped some n00bs try to not be so n00bish today and I'm feeling all 'Mr. Rogers' on the inside with a positive glow."

Option C- Most people choose this one. Do nothing. At all. Don't say anything to them at the crag, good or bad. Don't come home and spray about n00bs on the interweb. You do your own thing, be cautious of others' actions and let them find their own way.

Everyone starts somewhere. Nothing you say or do is going to prevent people from being bumbling beginners at your crag, getting in over their heads, and annoying the veterans. There are very few climbers that haven't found themselves at that very same place early in their climbing. Actually, I kind of pity those that haven't.

OP still hasn't responded. Obviously cowering now that he has released the wrath of MP.

Although the "Noobs" you talk about worry me at Tahquitz - it's SoCal dude...most everything has a line of people waiting. Get up earlier or move out of state.

Well, I don't think the intention of this post is to determine who's dick is bigger (west coast or east coast), but to try to encourage people to do some easier SINGLE pitch cragging before getting on some more committing multi-pitch routes in Tahquitz and making fools of themselves...

...or sleep in longer and head up after the morning crowds...

Even the leader who can "crush" one pitch 5.11 is a relative novice on his first multi-pitch routes. To the MP neophyte, common sense would dictate that climbing a large formation with a 45 minute approach should not be underestimated > seek qualified parental guidance.

Sermonizing aside, Tahquitz has seen it's share of epics and I'm sure it will see more. I was climbing at Suicide the day of that horrendous accident on the moderate 'Sahara Terror' in 1984.

Buckle up & climb safe guys.

PS: Who's Reardon ?

I always find the whole E vs W and whether the grades are stiffer than each other interesting, because alot of the places I have climbed (with the exception of Red Rocks and Red River) say that their grades are sandbagged (i.e. J tree, Yose, Gunks, Tahquitz). I never considered them sandbagged; I guess when everything you climb is "sandbagged" nothing is.
P.S. Climbed Just Another Jam 5.7+ in Zion and THAT was sandbagged

Will S, you made my night. This was my last read before heading to bed and chuckled at both the little league comment as well as the follow up........Royal Robbins/YDS/first 5.9.....:) snicker.

I always like hitting Tahquitz early season on those classic lines like Sahara Terror and the Long Climb as they were almost for certain to yield you some sort of stuck or bootied gear.

Sure sure the Gunks and the East Coast is so hard. Right. I've been there as well as Seneca, and sure the climbs are sandbagged, but 5.7 in both places are like a 5.8-5.9 elsewhere until you get used to the climbing and it starts to feel like 5.7 again.

I just think it's ludicrous to tell people not to go somewhere when they even when they are starting out. Sure, raining down debris is not cool, but get over the fact that you have to wait or didn't get out early enough for the climb you wanted. Plus, you were a noob at some point. I'm sure you wouldn't have appreciated a similar sentiment.

I have climbed the gunks and guess what.... 5.7 felt like 5.7 at most other places I have climbed around the US that were not super soft. 5.7 at the gunks is no harder than 5.7 in NC or vedauwoo. Every climbing style is different and takes a bit of getting used to.

But Gunks climbers.... PLEASE stop spraying about how hard your grades are. No one cares and they really are not that different than countless other areas.

I totaly CRUSHED fingertrip. dose this mean I am no longer a inexperienced climber mountainloin?