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Tahquitz Conditions?
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By Yair Horowitz
Jan 5, 2012
On Red Wall at Smith

If anyone knows, what are the current conditions at Tahquitz? Is any rock dry and free of ice/snow? Crampons necessary for approach? Ice climbing available?

Thanks!


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By Robin like the bird
From mountain center ,CA
Jan 5, 2012
oh

Have not been out there to totally confirm this, but here is my 2 cents. It is summer time up here. Hot and warm no precip. which mean most every thing is climbable. there might be some snow or ice on some routes on the north sides, but i would bet that most of that is climbable. with out a doubt everything from the trough to the right(or around to the south side) is in great condition.

As far as Ice goes I would bet that it is thin if even there. And no snow on the approach.

Again only educated queses since i have not actually be to the base or on the approach.


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By MARK GOLDSMITH
From Lake arrowhead
Jan 6, 2012
me on matthes crest

Perfect climbing conditions on 1-5 at tahquitz (avoid north face routes)


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By x15x15
Jan 7, 2012

it was kinda too hot in the sun this last week. the shade was perfect. but it was kinda cold today in the shade this morning, and the sun was perfect...


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By Richard Shore
Jan 10, 2012
Eichorns Pinnacle

Climbed at suicide rock today (01/10/12) in the shade, and it was very pleasant. No snow anywhere at the base of the NE face or on the walk-off descent.

Get up there and enjoy the unseasonable weather (and ZERO crowds) before the next winter storm system rolls through!


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By Maureen Aldridge
Jan 13, 2012

Went there last weekend and climbed Open Book with my girlfriend - it was a balmy 60+ degrees in the sun! Just a little snow on the hike-in... anyone up for climbing there tomorrow?


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By Aaron O
From Seattle, WA
Feb 27, 2012
Angel's Crest

Any recent beta on Tahquitz? My buddy and I are making a trip in mid-march and were hoping to do some climbs on the northwest recess (whodunnit, constolations, etc.). I climbed there alot last season, and don't recall ever having any problems around that time of year.

Let me know if you have any input.


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By Tristan B
From La Crescenta, CA
Feb 27, 2012
Hanging out on Royal Arches

This winter has been weak this year. I think we are getting a little snow there right now. But most will prolly melt by the end of the week.


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By Ryan Strickland
From Idyllwild, CA
Feb 28, 2012

1 foot of snow on the ground today in Idyllwild. It will likely stay on the ledges and in cracks on the northwest recess for 1-2 weeks. The south face is always the first to go snow free.


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By saltlick
From gym
Mar 8, 2012
Tree-bouldering near Mt. Tam

Did Open Book and Ski Tracks last weekend... plenty of snow on the approach, but beauty-ful conditions on the rock! Most of the descent was snow-free, but there are still a few shady spots where small drifts remain. NW Recess climbs will be cold and probably wet for awhile yet.


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By Aaron O
From Seattle, WA
Mar 8, 2012
Angel's Crest

Did you happen to see if there was any snow on the approach pitch to the Vampire?


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By Aaron O
From Seattle, WA
Mar 8, 2012
Angel's Crest

Also, does anyone know if you can fit a Wild Country #6 into the top of the OW crack on the 2nd pitch of Open Book? I don't have a #5 C4 and remember climbing it with one.


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By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Mar 8, 2012

Aaron O wrote:
Did you happen to see if there was any snow on the approach pitch to the Vampire?


That section of the cliff base stays snowy for a while; it doesn't get a whole lot of sun. If they got a foot of snow a week ago, as told by the talented Mr. Strickland, then there is almost definitely some snow under the Vampire. The base of Open Book, as well as the route itself, melts/dries out much much faster.


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By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Mar 8, 2012

Aaron O wrote:
Also, does anyone know if you can fit a Wild Country #6 into the top of the OW crack on the 2nd pitch of Open Book? I don't have a #5 C4 and remember climbing it with one.


A cam that big probably won't fit, and in either case a larger cam is totally unnecessary. A #4 C4 will fit into the crack the whole way up. The second pitch protects perfectly with just one #4 if you jam the crack, allowing you to walk the cam. If you are going to layback the thing and want to sew it up, 2 #4s and 2 #3s would be more than enough.

The only place on the whole route that you could put in a really big cam on the route is on the 3rd pitch, to protect the runout 5.6 slab/corner/OW/flare weirdness up there. Not worth the extra weight of bringing it though.


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By Ryan Strickland
From Idyllwild, CA
Mar 9, 2012

Anybody want to get on Tahquitz tomorrow? My partner strained his back this morning and won't climb. I'm looking to do Coffin Nail/Traitor Horn, I'm willing to do anything else on top of that.


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By kman154
From Versailles, KY
Mar 26, 2012

What are the conditions usually like at the last week of July. Is it unbearbly hot? To hot to climb?


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By Canon
Mar 27, 2012

Huh? Tahquitz is well above 5000 feet. It's probably fine.


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By Graham S
From Riverside, CA
Mar 27, 2012
Mt. Whitney

Hiked up to Lunch Rock and around the right towards the Open Book this past Sunday. Still plenty of snow on the approach trail and at the base of the wall. Was going for the ridge traverse to the fire lookout tower. The weather moved in, so we bailed.

There were some dry spots, however, there's still some snow and ice in the shaded areas. Couldn't really see what the upper pitches were looking like as I didn't have binoculars.


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By Doug D
Apr 1, 2012
Dog

Climbed Finger trip to El Camino. Temos were good and the snow was not a problem.


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By Rob Selter
From running springs Ca
Apr 5, 2012
me

bump


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By M Irving
Apr 5, 2012

Yeah, bump please, anyone been out there lately? Thinking about the West Face area, Angels Fright, the Trough...


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By Mtnfly
From El Segundo, Ca
Apr 5, 2012

Climbed fingertip traverse. Couldn't see any snow there, or down in the trough. Lost pair of shoes after friction descent. Please keep an eye out


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By pfinnegan
From Boulder, CO
Apr 5, 2012
tahquitz!

Climbed Coffin Nail > Traitor Horn 3/29. Weather was beautiful but a bit of post-holing required on the hike in.

No snow anywhere on the route; it was perfect. But at the top there was lots of snow melting onto the friction descent making the walk-off look very dicey. We found a slung tree and rapped. It felt much safer.


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By x15x15
Apr 7, 2012

horrible up there yesterday. we had the whole rock to ourselves, did a bunch of climbing, but we were all alone!!! scary...


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By Rob M
From Fullerton, ca
Apr 17, 2012

Bump... any word folks?


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By LMo
Apr 17, 2012

I was wondering the same thing...


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