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By James Reed
Jan 8, 2013

Anyone been to Cascade or Coldstream? Rainbow or Eagle Creek? Any info would be appreciated.


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By tsuji
From Boulder, CO
Jan 8, 2013
On Peak 11,300 in the Ruth

Cascade is out, coldstream is on its way out. The flow that goes up into the notch was super hollow and sketchy on Saturday. The one to the left of it looked to be in pretty good shape though.


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By BruceB
From Reno, NV
Jan 8, 2013

I'm fairly new to the Tahoe area, and in search of ice climbing. Can you tell me why Cascade and Coldstream are on their way out?. Will they come back into shape, or is there just not enough flowing water to reform them, and/or do they get buried in snow?

I've heard there's ice bouldering to be had inside the old tunnels at Donner summit. Can anyone provide some information about this, including how to access the tunnels.

Thanks.


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By obrien73
Jan 8, 2013

There is pretty decent ice bouldering in the tunnel, but it was a little thin as of two weeks ago. I'm going to head back up that way at some point this week. Hopefully it will be better.

The tunnels are located just south of Donner Ski Ranch.


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By climbing coastie
From Sacramento
Jan 9, 2013
Switzerland

Was at Coldstream on Sunday. I thought it was in good shape.

Started on the flow to the right of the notch. After getting onto the ice there was only one short section of soft wet ice. You could pass it on the right but it was a little steeper than I was willing to lead.

Moved over to the flow coming out of the notch. Definitely thin going up the middle but the right side was good to go. There is open water at the top just below the belay bolts (hope tsuji and partners didn't punch through).

Didn't ski up to it but the ice on the left looked fat.

Of course this was before the warm up the last couple days. Looks like another cold front coming in though.


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By Rude Boy
From San Francisco, CA
Jan 9, 2013
Scouting

on january 5:

cold stream canyon:

Cold Stream - Left <br />Cold Scream - Right
Cold Stream - Left
Cold Scream - Right


the right most flow, cold scream, was all percolating water and very flaky crappy quality ice throughout the blue sections. the 10 feet of powder at the top prevented us from being able to set a top rope :(
the middel flow, cold stream, was thin and detached all the way up. as mike put it, it was one big ice dome several feet up over rock and running water. only a few inches thick in places. all screw placements were useless accept for one near the top where there was one fat solid bulge of ice. most of the ice is aerated. a mix of snow/neve/ice. not sure why climbing coastie is saying the right side is good. most of it is snow/neve? i was placing 16 cm screws and all except the last one went right through to hollowness. i lead straight up the obvious line:

Cold Stream flow
Cold Stream flow


yes i did punch through at the top! i clipped the chains with my safety and was setting up to belay mike up and the whole thing gave way under me. i was so sketched out that i was not even willing to rap down that thing. we went over right and rapped off a tree.

Code Red/Candle Spooge
Code Red/Candle Spooge


code red looks good but again we did see running percolating water along the blue patches. for my first ice climb of the season i was not about to attempt to lead it. when we got to the top of the cliff we walked over to attempt to set a tope rope. too much powder all the way to the lip prevented us from getting close safely :(

the potential is there but it needs to get cold again for a while.

cascade falls:

Cascade Falls
Cascade Falls


Cascade Falls
Cascade Falls


roadside ice along highway 89:

Highway 89 Roadside Ice
Highway 89 Roadside Ice


i led this one up the middle most vertical part. caltrans kept telling us to leave cuz it's in the avy zone. the chp showed up, then we left. wi3+ maybe wi4? thick good quality ice. it's a lot more vertical than it looks. there is webbing and a locking biner on the small tree to the right to lower off of. bag this one if you want the adventure of being an outlaw and eluding the po po!


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By SirTobyThe3rd
Jan 9, 2013
Hello

Wonderful conditions update. Thank you guys. The monkeys be sendin'


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By Rude Boy
From San Francisco, CA
Jan 13, 2013
Scouting

on january 11:

South Side of Canyon
South Side of Canyon


Wall of Mixed Feelings
Wall of Mixed Feelings


Pillar Almost In
Pillar Almost In


Right Side
Right Side


this ice was all virgin when we found it. we made short work of that by beating it out and manhandling it over and over for 2 days. there are some sloppy seconds to be had but the coming warming trend may make that opportunity fleeting.


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By Rude Boy
From San Francisco, CA
Jan 13, 2013
Scouting

oh yeah, there is this thing too but it is pretty crappy so don't waste your time!

Fvck Yeah!
Fvck Yeah!


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By SirTobyThe3rd
Jan 14, 2013
Hello

That thing is like taking a shower in the PM! Wear gaiters and everything waterproof! lol

PS: I found my tool :)


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By tom mahr
From s. lake
Jan 20, 2013
just playing

cool pics, I have time to play now no more 60+ hrs a week. so this help with recon,hitting cascade this afternoon when partner is available. Let me know if your up for climbing some time. Might of meet and last pic.


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By Rude Boy
From San Francisco, CA
Jan 21, 2013
Scouting

hey tom, can you post an update for us since ur local. temps have been warm, is there any ice left? unfortunately my man our schedules are now reversed. i'm pretty busy over the next month but you have my number....


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By TonyV
From Cool, CA
Jan 24, 2013

Lake Audrain was fat and very nice for the short hike in. 50' WI 2/3. That was on January 22, 2013. No dripping the entire day.


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By SirTobyThe3rd
Jan 25, 2013
Hello

Anyone climbed today or yesterday? Would love to have some very recent reports. I heard it was great ice in beginning of the week, but it has been real warm...

If you don't want the whole world to know you can PM me about it and your secret will be safe :)


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By bergbryce
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jan 25, 2013

I haven't been out but I can't imagine the conditions are that great. It's been raining and really warm for the past 24 hours at least. Any ice that is still up might be kind of sketchy. We could be back in business if things get and remain cold again which looks like it might happen in a few days.


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By Austin Gardner
From Santa Clara, CA
Jan 28, 2013
Tahoe ice

photo of Lake Audrain on January 26, 2013
photo of Lake Audrain on January 26, 2013

Here'a a photo of the ice last Saturday at Lake Audrain off hwy 50. The first 10-15 feet was thin and melting mid-day, but the upper section was pretty solid. Ice is more vertical than it looks in photo. The photo makes it look low angle.


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By SirTobyThe3rd
Jan 29, 2013
Hello

wow looks not bad!


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By climbing coastie
From Sacramento
Feb 7, 2013
Switzerland

Still ice to be had up there.

I climbed a 25m WI3ish on the north side of Donner Peak Tuesday that made for an exciting solo with some exposure. Itís big enough to see from I-80! There were a couple other flows up there, but I didnít feel like tackling them solo.

Cascade Falls had water running down the center on Wednesday but the climberís left had some thick ice that climbable. Wasnít steep at all but it was enough to swing tools at. The right side had some interesting features and was a little steeper but, again didnít want to solo them as it looked a little detached.

A couple other areas had ice but Iím not going to take all the fun out of it for you.


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By SirTobyThe3rd
Feb 18, 2013
Hello

We climbed Moonage Daydream in Sequoia on Saturday (about 700-800 ft of ice with 100 or so ft of snow between the lower and upper pitches). Seemed like first ascent of the season. Ice/rock was spicy on the first pitch. Beautiful ice from there.






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By Rude Boy
From San Francisco, CA
Feb 18, 2013
Scouting

Nice! That's 700-800 feet?!?!


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By SirTobyThe3rd
Feb 19, 2013
Hello

Yea about 750 ft I think. Looks small in the photo, but it's much bigger in real life :)
Per Summitpost page it is a 1000ft climb, but it wasn't. We did it in 5 long pitches (vs 6-7 per SP) and walked about 100ft of snow in between a few. If first pitch had ice that was connecting, we might of been able to do it in 4 60m pitches, but probably not.


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By Topher42
Feb 20, 2013

Anyone want to get out on the ice in tahoe area this weekend or next?


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