Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Tahoe death slabs?



View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums


Page 1 of 1.  
 
By Hugo Watt
May 20, 2012

I have been hearing rumors of hard run out slab routes in the Tahoe area, which just happens to be the type of climbing that I'm attracted too but I cant find any info on them. Anyone have any idea of the routes I'm thinking of?


FLAG
By J. Albers
From Colorado
May 20, 2012
Bucky

Are you looking for single pitch stuff or multipitch? If you are just looking for single pitch stuff, that shouldn't be too hard to find. You need to be a bit more specific than simply saying runout, hard slab. What do you consider hard? How long? etc. etc. Either way, you might want to try getting in touch with either Mike Carville or John Jackson for specifics (although I would say that before you bug either of them, perhaps you should look through their books first....its only reasonable to do your homework before asking others for info.)

Mike Carville posts over on SuperTopo; look him up and send him a PM (he is a nice guy and will probably tell you what he knows). John Jackson has a new book; his website is here:

camp4press.com/guidebooks.html


FLAG
By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
May 20, 2012

The only thing that springs immediately to mind is some of the stuff at Cal Dome. I think mostly on the left side of Hammer?


FLAG
By J. Albers
From Colorado
May 20, 2012
Bucky

caughtinside wrote:
The only thing that springs immediately to mind is some of the stuff at Cal Dome. I think mostly on the left side of Hammer?


No, there is some damn serious stuff on Cal Dome too...giddy up. However, I don't really think Cal Dome counts as Tahoe area. Besides, all the routes up at Cal Dome suck; don't bother going....just rattlesnakes, mosquitos, and rednecks...really, that place is for suckers (grin).


FLAG
By Joe Huggins
From 666 Rue le Jour-Edge City
May 21, 2012
mmmm....tree

Runout slabs at Tahoe,eh? Not much, as I recall. But, if you havn't done Fantasia, you have a treat in store.


FLAG
By Hugo Watt
May 21, 2012

Are you looking for single pitch stuff or multipitch? If you are just looking for single pitch stuff, that shouldn't be too hard to find. You need to be a bit more specific than simply saying runout, hard slab. What do you consider hard? How long? etc. etc.

I'm looking for single pitch up to maybe .12- or something that is moderately difficult (below 5.10) with an R rating. I climb frequently in Joshua tree and was hoping to find some routes or even an area with similar distances between bolts. I know that's still pretty general but I've never climbed in Tahoe and don't know what to expect.


FLAG
By bergbryce
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
May 21, 2012

There isn't a lot of slab climbing in Tahoe that I know of.
You get an occasional couple slab routes, Grouse Slabs in Donner for example, but that's an exception, not the norm.
The slabs to the right of Crepes Corner at Pie Shop don't have m(any)? bolts and it's pretty slabby.

If you really want runout slab climbing, go to Tuolomne. Plenty of that there and it's of the highest quality.


FLAG
By Weston L
From Summerlin, NV
May 21, 2012
Me at the good rest on Doggie Do

If you really want 'death slabs' you should take the couple of hours and cruise down to Tuolumne. That should keep you entertained.


FLAG
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From Vacaville Ca.
May 25, 2012

The Donner area has a few single pitch things scattered about. Some of them are pretty damn bleak and spicy enough for any "would be Woodward wannabe".

Lovers Leap has a couple. Dancing Feet is a good 5.10d with 50ft of space between some pro. Despite the excessive distance between pro, it's actually pretty reasonable. There are several borderline slab/face routes in the .11+ to .12- area that have some considerable spice to them as well. Strawbilly Tango, Psychedelic Direct, Pillar of Society and A Few Dollars More or Showtime especially. Better be on top of your game for those two.

Really though, Cal Domes is where you want to be. Shaking All Over, Rastaman Vibrations, Fault Line, Whyamea and Over the Edge definitely will grab your cojones. Smear Tactics is a brutal .12, Sole Sacrifice (a brilliant .10d, not too run), Beacons From Mars (classic), Lightning Bolt (awesome .11d) an unknown .11+RX thing left of it that looks insane(haven't mustered the nuts for that one yet), Thunderbolt (cruiser .10-) Tuck and Roll ( there's and adventure).

Then there's a few good ones on Hammer Dome as well, but only a couple. Check out Walking the Moon, Set The Controls (excellent & spicy), West of Venus (scary but great) and Traveling Man. All these routes are really concentrated in one area so that's a bonus.

There's a few other good ones on the surrounding domes but they're not worth the effort unless you're a frequent flyer.


FLAG
By kevin deweese
From walnut creek, ca
May 25, 2012
don't throw rocks

Damnit Salamanizer, my to-do list just got that much longer. Ugh.


FLAG
By Mike Smyth
From Spartanburg, SC
May 25, 2012
Stick clips can be very handy in this area to keep it a little safer

If you want to run it out, just skip bolts.


FLAG
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From Vacaville Ca.
May 25, 2012

Mike Smyth wrote:
If you want to run it out, just skip bolts.



That's a lame defeated argument. "Just skipping bolts" lacks commitment and diminishes the experience and accomplishment.


FLAG
By John Jackson
Jun 18, 2012

Rainbow would give you what you are looking for. Not long, not "death slabs" but certainly sporty. If you're really looking for stout "puckerfests" head to Cal Dome.

Edit: Almost forgot Bat Wall at Donner Summit, approached from the I-80 side not from old 40. Definately will get your attention. Bat Wall would get your head tuned up. All routes done in ground up style. Routes are between 120'-190' tall on a steep "blank", nearly unbroken slab/wall with no wasted bolts. Not a bad idea to bring a bolt kit in case you need to replace that one old bolt between you and a big whipper. Most of the routes are "old school" 5.10s. (similar to stout Joshua Tree ratings) A couple of the "newer" routes are a bit better protected.


FLAG

Page 1 of 1.