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 ADVANCED
Cedar Rock - Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adultery T 
Birthday Bash T 
Caught Up in the Air T 
Caught up in the Air Direct T 
Cedar Blossom T 
Cedar Pie T 
Common Ground T,S 
Details at Ten T 
Ex-squeeze Me T 
Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun T,S 
Happy Camper S 
Happy Ending T,S 
I wanna be sedated T,S 
LeMenestrel Cramps T 
Margin of Error T,S 
New Creature T 
Off The Cuff T 
Oh! Mr. Friction T 
Orangutan Flake T 
Passion and Warfare T,S 
Pawing the Void S 
Petrified Cedar T 
Polliwog T 
Rawhide Arch T 
Sibling Revelry T 
Smoke Hole Weiners T 
Spirit Stick T,S 
Stockings On The Mantle T 
Tadpole Direct T 
Toads Are Us T 
Two In Agreement T 
Unknown 5.5 T 
unknown 5.9- T,S 
Wild Ginger Root T 
Wyoming Dick T 

Tadpole Direct 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tony Spainhour & Nathan Brown '08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 412
Submitted By: nbrown on Dec 5, 2009

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Description 

This is a frictiony direct variation into the water streak of Tadpole... It avoids the vegetated left facing 5.9 corner to the left.

Start just left of "Sibling Revelry". Step up and left onto face and climb past 2 bolts before moving back right into the black watergroove. Continue up groove to merge into the upper portion of "Tadpole In The Party Bowl".

Location 

This climbs the face just left of "Sibling Revelry" to the water groove.

Protection 

medium sized rack of small to medium cams


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By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Feb 17, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Doubles in the TCU/C3 range will keep the post-bolt section safe.