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Setting up a rap from the top of Taco Time.
Serious climbing for the grade. It would be unpleasant to fall on many parts of this route due to the nature of the fall that would result (i.e. it wouldn't be a clean fall). Crux is near the top. It was a very enjoyable climb and is an easy way to get to the top of this wall if you intend to TR some of the other climbs.
Farthest right bolted climb above a knobby stump. Right of Atomic Cafe. Rap down off of anchors.
Quickdraws. Bolted anchor at top.
Jul 13, 2009
Decided to check this area out after being in The Narrows on a 103+ degree day. This is a very serious climb for the grade. First bolt was about 20 feet up on top of the column, it is out of sight from the ground. I think it may have been added latter, I totally missed it and clipped the higher bolt.
I was also hallucinating on the route from heat exhaustion. I seriously thought the fifth bolt was HUGE, it looked to be like a giant bolt, I had never seen anything like it (I thought it was some sort of anchor. I had to back down though because I thought the run-out was about 20 feet and I didn't feel like shattering my ankles on a ledge.
My partner finished though, he was new so I started telling him how he was going to have to clean this anchor but when he made the moves he reached out and clipped the bolt. It wasn't a giant anchor after all, but just a regular sized bolt. The heat exhaustion had to be messing with my vision.
Heat exhaustion or not, this is a serious climb. Pretty much ever spot on this route is in no fall zone, except the last bolt, it would have been the only spot I would have been ok falling at.
|By Steve DiMarino|
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 31, 2010
I never saw a first bolt and clipped the second at 20 feet up. This is not a 5.6 by any means. Like Celeb I about passed out from the heat and water loss, but for what it is worth, I think it is 5.9 at the top. Maybe I was delirious from the heat, but 5.6 climber be warned.
Also it is easier to get to the first bolt (that I saw 25 feet up) from the left gully rather than the right.
|By Zach Wahrer|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 29, 2010
While I agree this is a serious route with potential for decking on the ledges and a very high first bolt, I would not agree with Steve that it is 5.9. Maybe you got off route or it was the heat. I climbed it during the winter, so no heat problems for me!
The worst part about this climb is trying to find it if you've never been to the area. We got lost a few times on the way out and almost got stuck out over night. Also, as I recall, one (or more) of the anchor bolts seemed kind of shady...
|By Brent Butcher|
Mar 10, 2011
This is definitely a classic 5.6 WMWR climb, not anywhere close to a 5.9. The route was fun and easy. However, like the others have said, there is a hidden bolt around ~14ft up, once you clear the tree it should be to the left.
|By Ryan A. Ray|
From: Keller, TX
Mar 12, 2012
No way that there is anything on this route harder than 5.6. You must have been off route.