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Taboo 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Craig Peer, Glen Short, M.Stewart,1985
Page Views: 329
Submitted By: Souljah on Apr 26, 2013

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FA Taboo Winter 1985. Verglas on the water streak ...

Description 

Crux comes between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Traverse left from 3rd bolt to a brittle flake. Pass 3 more bolts and surmount a small overlap. Continue climbing (5.9/10a) clipping a few more bolts along the way.

Typical Punchbowl rock quality keeps this route from achieving a higher star rating.

Third bolt was placed on 2nd ascent by FA's to eliminate run-out.

Location 

Route begins at a large hueco to the right of a prominent water streak located near the center of Behind The Scenes Wall.

Protection 

Follow meandering line of bolts to a chain anchor. No gear.


Photos of Taboo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pebble stance below the overlap.
Pebble stance below the overlap.
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving through the crux.
Moving through the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting one in after the crux.
Getting one in after the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost home.  All Photos: Glen Short
Almost home. All Photos: Glen Short

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By Chad Parker
From: Ventura, California
Jan 26, 2015

This route is just to the left of Lucifers Tooth 5.11c/d

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