Let's get together outside. One weekend. 400 FREE REI outdoor classes and outings across the nation, July 30-31.
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
(m) Taboo Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Handful of Harpies S 
Cavorting S 
Forbidden Fruit S 
Magic Mushroom S 
Momentum S 
Original Sin S 
Rocky S 
Seduction S 
Sins of the Flesh S 
Sky Pilot S 
Taboo T 
Violator S 

Taboo 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FFA-Louie Anderson, 2003
Season: Corner faces northwest
Page Views: 2,856
Submitted By: bheller on Jan 4, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Josh Higgins on Taboo (5.12c), Riverside Quarry.

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb desereves to be recognized! Brilliant, difficult climbing in a perfect stemming corner with great rock. Starts with blocky bolt protected face climbing off the belay ledge, then the climb gains another ledge at the base of a vertical corner with a crisp fingercrack. Stems and liebacks get one through the start to another stance midway, then this thing gets suprisingly steep and the crack gets thin! About a body length of powerful moves and desperate stems will see you through this steep bit, and then you face the pumping off-fingers lieback finish.
One of the best...better than 4 stars...brilliant!

Location 

As you stand looking at west face of the quarry, the Taboo area is located on the right side of the steep granite walls. Taboo is the striking left-facing dihedral that begins about 80 feet off of the ground. To the lower right of the corner there is a light-colored large rock scar. There are a few different approach pitches that lead to the base of Taboo, I used Original Sin (11b). Original Sin is obvious because it begins off a ledge you and your belayer must scramble up on and it climbs obvious chipped pockets and jugs-and its fun. With a 70m rope you can link any of the approach routes with the Taboo dihedral and lower back down to the ground.

Protection 

4 bolts protect off the midway belay ledge/anchors, and then nuts and doubles of cams from tips to off-fingers. (purple#0's to red#4's in metolius) Use draws/slings to elimiate drag in this steep corner.Ring anchors at the top of the crack- no finishing traverse to the left needed. You'll also need extra draws to lead the bolted approach pitches.


Photos of Taboo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Taboo is the left facing corner that casts the sha...
BETA PHOTO: Taboo is the left facing corner that casts the sha...
Rock Climbing Photo: 2-18-12
2-18-12
Rock Climbing Photo: In this photo you can see the midway ledge with ri...
BETA PHOTO: In this photo you can see the midway ledge with ri...
Rock Climbing Photo: 2-18-12
2-18-12
Rock Climbing Photo: An even closer view.
BETA PHOTO: An even closer view.
Rock Climbing Photo: 2-18-12
2-18-12

Comments on Taboo Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!