|By rock_fencer |
From Columbia, SC
Nov 23, 2013
The season ends Dec 31st. You really should check in at the ranger station which opens annoyingly late. hike is about 1200-1500 vertical in about 2 miles maybe to the base. First wall you hit is the groove wall. climbers left leads you to the main face where everything is genuinely hard and engaged climbing. Some stuff in between that is mixed dificulty i'm not entirely familiar with. My topos are in greenville at the moment.
the majority of the climbing if run out water grooves and very spicy face climbing. Minimal rack is necessary but a full rack because well you never know what you need. emphasis on small stuff except for a few routes. Not much for the newer 10 leader. Its best to go with someone who knows the area. To give you an idea, i've climbed there and helped put up a route up there, am a comfortable 11 leader on gear and i still think twice before i go out there.
Your best bet should you decide to venture up there is the groove wall which is the first wall you come across. Its the location of some moderate 9's that will get you in the head space. mostly single pitch but you can take them up to the top if your want (cant guarantee a rappel from the top, or pro on the route). I dont know much other easier stuff than that. The ten's can be quite hard up there, both mentally and physically as its quite vertical slab climbing in parts. Just looking at your current tick list, i'd say at the very least test your mettle on routes like Dinkus Dog, Pooter the poacher, Carboman at the glass, central pillar at the knob, Catholic School girls direct whitesides- as these protect much better than TR but have similar engagement. Snap Crackle Pop on cereal Wall is also a good engaging and much better protected version of the face climbing on the main face.
No guidebooks, but there are topos floating around if you get to know the right people. It's kind of a low key location because its bold and injuries would be disastrous for everyone involved (difficult evac , limited to no high angle rescue training, etc...). There has been some better communication regarding climbing as a resource for the state park so things are on track for an improved relationship in the future.