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Table Mountain Slab

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"False" Holy Smoke  T 
Bugs Eat Frogs T 
City of Lost Children  T 
Dick to the Rescue  T 
Genevieve T 
Holy Grail  T 
Hornet  T 
Knights in White Satin  T 
Merlin T 
Merlin’s Wand  T 
Noble Gesture T 
Old Smokey's Return, The T 
Percival's Quest T 
Picnic Table  T 
REAL Holy Smoke & Table Scraps  T 
Sir Bors Dream  T 
Table Talk  T 
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Table Mountain Slab  


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Location: 44.0099, -71.321 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,359
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: john strand on Jul 17, 2010
Forecast:
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Description 

Pleasant climbing on a 300' south facing slab; nice rock and no one ever goes here.

Spring 2015 update: As of May 7th Bear Notch Rd. remains CLOSED; yes, even though the NH Dot Website says it's open.

Getting There 

Hike in the Attitash trail off the east side of bear Notch Road (BNR), about an hour+. With a rope, gear and some water-and-lunch I find the hike up about 50 minutes from Bear Notch. ( about 2 miles and 1200 vertical feet) A very pleasant hike, with a lovely stream & pool, hardwood forest and nice views on the final 1/3 of the hike. The trail goes over a few slabs with open views to the West and South, but you know you have come to the correct slab when you can see to the East and can see Albany Covered Bridge [see photo]; I usually "gear up here" and then go back down the hiking trail about 25 ft to the climber's path (now on your left). Down this steeply 50 yds or so to the rap tree. (15" diameter pine with fixed rap station)

The new "North Conway" guide, which basically copies Webster for this cliff, is pretty good but suffers from one serious flaw and that is the LOCATION of the intermediate rap anchor on Bugs Eat Frogs on the PHOTO. While stating (as does Webster) in the text that this station is 140 feet below the "rap" tree [It's actually about 160ft] the photo places the anchor WAY TOO HIGH, at a place where one could not even see the correct anchor. Also, IF YOU EXTEND THE ANCHOR ON THE TREE BY 12-15 FEET, it is possible to reach the "Table Talk" belay station with a single-rope-70m rope, then another single-rope rap to the ground. The "Table Talk" belay is about 30 feet rappeller's right (viewer's left) of the fall-line from the tree.

A different rap station can be reached by a 'path' that starts a few feet above the first Rap-tree. This path leads West 75-100ft, down 40 ft, then over another 50 ft and down 50 ft to a bolt-and-threaded-flake station. Using a 70M rope from THIS rap station it is possible to make a single-rope 35meter rap to the Merlin Belay, and then another 35 meter rap to the ground (swinging to rappeller's right). Thus only one 70M rope is needed. The Merlin belay now consists of two 3/8" SS bolts and chains, plus one of the original 1/4" bolts. THE FLAKE ABOVE AND TO THE LEFT IS HOLLOW. Another belay about 30 ft West (rapeller's left) of the Merlin belay is a dbl bolt 3/8" ss, but I think the rap to the ground is a bit more than 35M.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.7 miles from here

17 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',4],['5.8',6],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Table Mountain Slab
Dbl Bolt anchor, top of P2 of Table Scraps Looking...

REAL Holy Smoke & Table Scraps 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13  NH : Table Mountain Slab
The bolts at the two belays and, at least at the top overlap, are relatively new: either 3/8” or 5/16”(?). P1 – Pitch 1 was first climbed as part of Holy Smoke by D. Burnell and D. Teschner in 1993. Climb up the steps and holes with more chances for protection than it seems from below [a Green and a Yellow Alien are useful], to well-featured rock and two bolt anchor 6-7feet above a large flake, which is just above a nice stance. 100-110 ft 5.3 - 5.4 P2 – P2 was climbed by Dick & Karen Travers...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Table Mountain Slab Slideshow Add Photo
Table Mt - Left Side
BETA PHOTO: Table Mt - Left Side
Table Mt - Overview "Locator" of All Cli...
BETA PHOTO: Table Mt - Overview "Locator" of All Cli...
View to So.East including Albany Covered Bridge on...
BETA PHOTO: View to So.East including Albany Covered Bridge on...

Comments on Table Mountain Slab Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 6, 2015
By chinos
Aug 28, 2011
strandman, any info on the lines out here?
By john strand
From: southern colo
Aug 29, 2011
I'd rather not copy Websters but, the usual assortment of deathy 5.7- 5.8 and a couple of decent bolted (I think it's called Bug Eat frogs) 5.9 One 5.10
It's a nice area that no one ever goes to, Cool views
By burlap submariner
Sep 19, 2011
hiked out here recently from the kanc for the fun of it. looks to be a very prosperous cliff, plenty of room for lines left. the far left side has some cool features a little different from the slab. and really john, 20 minutes off bear notch?
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 19, 2011
20 minutes , jogging
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Feb 24, 2013
Handren's guide has about a dozen routes listed, from 5.7 to 10c, and mentions that there are a number of older ones who's descriptions have been lost. Apparently Paul Ross and Julia Blake put up a route called Dragon Fly here in 1975. It sounds like a fire and subsequent regrowth has made the approach from the Kanc nasty. This looks like a good crag. It would be nice to get some route descriptions up from first hand experience. Looks like a job for the Chinos!
By EDGE
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 24, 2013
Somebody turn on the Chinos light and sweep it across the NH skies...


Calling all Chinos
Calling all Chinos
By john strand
From: southern colo
Feb 25, 2013
I think Dragon fly was done after a route on rainbow, then thrash up to Table-GOOD GOD !!
By Robert Hall
Administrator
Aug 27, 2013
With a rope, gear and some water-and-lunch I find the hike up about 50 minutes from Bear Notch. ( about 2 miles and 1200 vertical feet) The trail goes over a few slabs with open views to the West and South, but you know you have come to the correct slab when you can see to the East and can see Albany Covered Bridge; I usually "gear up here" and then go back down the hiking trail about 25 ft to the climber's trail (now on your left). Down this steeply 50 yds or so to the rap tree. (15" diameter pine with fixed rap station)

The new "North Conway" guide, which basically copies Webster for this cliff, is pretty good but suffers from one serious flaw and that is the LOCATION of the intermediate rap anchor on Bugs Eat Frogs on the PHOTO. While stating (as does Webster) in the text that this station is 140 feet below the "rap" tree [It's actually about 160ft] the photo places the anchor WAY TOO HIGH, at a place where one could not even see the correct anchor. Also, if you extend the rap anchor on the tree by 12-15 feet or so, it is possible to make one 35M rap(but NOT 30M !) to the Table Talk belay station, then another to the ground. The Table Talk belay is about 30 feet (rappeller's) right of the fall-line from the tree.

A different rap station can be reached by a 'path' that starts a few feet above the first Rap-tree. This path leads West 75-100ft, down 40 ft, then over another 50 ft and down 50 ft to a threaded flake. (Flake can be backed up with a #1 Red Camalot) Using a 70M rope from THIS rap station it is possible to make a single-rope 35meter rap to the Merlin Belay, and then another 35 meter rap to the ground (swinging to rappeller's right). Thus only one 70M rope is needed. The Merlin belay now consists of two 3/8" SS bolts and chains, plus one of the original 1/4" bolts. THE FLAKE ABOVE AND TO THE LEFT IS HOLLOW. Another belay about 30 ft West (rapeller's left) of the Merlin belay is a dbl bolt 3/8" ss, but I think the rap to the ground is a bit more than 35M.
By chinos
Sep 19, 2013
thanks for updating the site. This place is pretty cool...
not too bad to get to after popping over rainbow either....
By Robert Hall
Administrator
Oct 16, 2013
Does anybody know who bolted the line described in both the Webster and Handren guides as Holy Smoke?
Since Webster lists Holy Smoke as having "...no-bolt protection BETTER THAN EXPECTED", and the climb Holy Smoke in Webster certainly DOES NOT fit that description, I sought out the first ascentionists. On 25OCT13 [this posting was revised 28OCT13] the 1993 first ascentionists of Holy Smoke (Doug Burnell & Doug Teschner) and I climbed at the crag. They said that, using the early information available in 1993 they mistook the now-standard rap tree as being on the top of the Merlin, not the top of the then-yet-to-be climbed Bugs Eat Frogs. Accordingly, they then reported to Webster their route, Holy Smoke, as being "40 feet left of Merlin", and this (incorrect) info. was then incorporated into Webster's guide, and repeated in the recent Handren guide.
Their REAL Holy Smoke actually climbs what would become( 2 yrs later) the first pitch of Table Scraps. Their route then traversed right to the upper dike line of 1983's Picnic Table. Both Dougs confirmed this, and later we climbed the route which actually is 25-30 ft left of Merlin, and which has been attributed to them since the Webster guide, and they confirmed they "NEVER would have led this without the bolts."
Thus the climb listed in both guide books as Holy Smoke should be re-named by whoever bolted it, as THAT ascent was probably a FA. I have chosen to call this climb the "False" Holy Smoke.
By USBRIT
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
May 6, 2015
Yes myself and Julia Blake thrashed to this then unclimbed slab sometime in 1975. Put up a route what I though the most prominent looking section .The slab had many dragon fly's zipping about ..thus the name .That's about all I remember.I never returned as in those days I considered such a crag was not worth the hike.
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