The access for Mendoza Canyon is via the good graces of the owner of the King Anvil Ranch you pass through to get to the canyon.
Update from Jeff Mayhew: 3-20-10
Mendoza Canyon access will still be open through King's Anvil Ranch from September 1 through March 1, as usual. The ranch owner, John King, is considering allowing foot access again at the original parking area, (see Approach Map,) from Sept. 1 through Dec. 1. After that he may re-post the No Trespassing sign, but may still allow foot access through the alternate parking area at the north end of the canyon's mouth, (see map.) Legally set traps are throughout the area so the suggestion is to leave the dogs at home. Regardless of this information, please obey all posted signs in the area. Access is still hanging by a thread!
After talking to Game and Fish, State Land Dept., and BLM it is clear that Mr. King has every right to block access at any time... and he is ready to at the drop of a hat. Fortunately, there are only about 15 of us that even go out there, so we mainly have to worry about the random rabble-rousers, (now there's a good name for a climb!)
Thanks for all the support and feel free to contact me. Jeff Mayhew (user JMayhew on this site)
Update from Jeff Mayhew 10-18-10
As of 10/2010 the access along the dirt road leading from the "original parking" at the small corral (see approach map) is still signed "No Trespassing." Please respect that!
The "alternate parking" shown on the map still allows foot access along an old, faint road. This eventually connects to the main dirt road before the pond, but Mr. King had said last spring that access was permitted at that point, as long as people respected the private property. Be sure to remember that fork--it can be tricky to see when you're hiking out tired... and possibly in the dark!
There is still an old, hand written note in the sign-in box stating access to Mendoza is closed. This was in there before Mr. King gave "us" permission to access via this alternate roadway.
Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10): We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.
Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This dome is located west from the notorious Elephant Dome. It features an obvious east face that takes sun most of the day but is shaded late in the afternoon.
The most popular climbs are Café Mendoza, Wily Javelina, Table for Two and Beggar's Banquet. The rock, for the most part, is of excellent quality, but it may be really bad in particular places. Be aware!
Table for Two and Beggar's Banquet are fully equipped with anchors and chains for rapping. Independently of what you climb, if you get to the summit, use either one of these safe descent routes.
From the water reservoir, follow the cairns up through a big granite slab. When the trail branches, take the left hand side, heading west. The right side will take you to the Elephant Dome. The trail will take you up stream into the gully that runs down between Elephant Dome and Table Dome. Follow it until you get to the base of the wall.
This is a phenomenal line that wanders up a low angle wall. This canyon offers fantastic views. The line itself is very fun and climbs on different kinds of granite on every pitch. The bolts are a bit spaced, but this is not a problem if you are a comfortable 5.9 climber. If you get lost, keep looking, in most cases you should be able to spot the next bolt from any given one. When the route is not clear, the climbing is easy, so just follow the 'easy-way' up and you surely will find the next bol...[more]Browse More Classics in AZ
Went in there Sunday night, camped by the gate. Right at the gate we ran into a couple ranchers who asked what why we were out there. We told them we were there to climb. They looked a little impatient and said "Just climbing eh?" We again said that yes, we were just there to climb. The driver said basically, "Okay, cool. Be safe out there" and cruised on his way.
On our way out, we noticed that there was a hand-written note in the registration box saying that Mendoza Canyon was closed due to destruction and theft of predator traps.
Not sure what it all means, but we left the campsite meticulous, and hopefully other climbers won't give them a reason to lock the gate.
As long as we don't walk down the road from the original parking area shown on the approach map on the main page here, but use the alternate parking area for the approach, all should be well,( see update comments above in "more info" section reference the note in the sign-in box.) I'm hoping people are not walking down that road that is signed "no trespassing". Camping at the original parking area is legal but would certainly cause the rancher to raise an eyebrow. There is good camping near the alternate parking area, also.