|434 page views|
George Perkins - stepping up to the scare.
Start by hopping up on a block to a left-angling flake to a giant pocket which you can heel hook, then continue up a right-angling thin seam up a leaning dihedral that is tricky to get good gear placements (crux), then surmount the end of the overhanging dihedral to exit.
This route is located about 15 feet to the north (right) of Unrelenting Nines.
Small to medium stoppers and cams, and some huevos. Anchor with gear.
|By George Perkins|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 12, 2008
rating: 5.10c PG13
The upper seam takes small nuts and RPs in tricky placements, also you can place a large nut or cam in a horizontal. Don't bother bringing gear bigger than a #1 camelot on this climb. It's strenuous to hold on while trying to find gear on the upper part, maybe running it out and going for it is the best choice for an onsight attempt.
I think this climb is one of the best ones at the Playground. It's sustained, there aren't any good rests, and it has an intricate crux. And the giant pocket is cool.
|By Sky Sjue|
Apr 4, 2012
Bomber offsets can be placed one body length into the thin, overhanging bit after which there are several more opportunities for small nuts, TCUs or sliders (even ignoring the pockets on the face). Not an easy lead, but not dangerous for a competent leader with thin gear.
I agree with George that this is a good climb.