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By Optimistic
From New Paltz
Dec 31, 2013

Hi,

Heading to Tennessee Wall in February, with a probable stop at Foster's Falls and a possible look at the Obed, and had a few beta questions.

1) It looks from what I've seen like a 60-meter rope will be fine for all of those places, is that right? Or is a 70 frequently handy?

2) Recommended cheap eateries in Chattanooga? Breweries? Mexican?

3) Particular part of town that'd be good to get a hotel in so we could walk to nearby bars/cafe's/eateries?

4) If we get totally hosed by the weather (looks pretty chilly and rainy down there whenever I check!), any thoughts on some nice (ie, not strip mall-encrusted) place on the Gulf Coast we can go get warm and talk about how badass we would have been if there wasn't a foot of snow covering Tennessee?

5) If we get to the Obed at all, it'll just be for a day. My new Dixie Cragger guide just covers Lilly Bluff. At the 9-11a level, is Lilly a pretty good sampler, or is there some other cliff we should focus on? Is there a better Obed crag if it's chilly?

Cheers!
David


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By jarthur
From Westminster, CO
Dec 31, 2013
My dogs got ups yo!

Optimistic wrote:
5) If we get to the Obed at all, it'll just be for a day. My new Dixie Cragger guide just covers Lilly Bluff. At the 9-11a level, is Lilly a pretty good sampler, or is there some other cliff we should focus on? Is there a better Obed crag if it's chilly? Cheers! David

South Clear Creek has plenty of good lines in the 5.9 to 5.11a range. If it's cold at all you won't want to head out to Lilly Bluff because the wall gets zero sun. There are a few other cliffs like Tierrany Roofs, but not for the level you're looking to climb. South Clear Creek will have plenty. A 60 meter will get you up everything in the area. The Image Wall at S. Clear has a lot of good moderates such as Spawn that I've climbed while it was frigid out.


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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Dec 31, 2013
You stay away from mah pig!

Here's what I know, which isn't too much, as I'm not a Chatt local:

1. A 60 should be good, although I seem to remember that some of the routes at Tierrany at the Obed might require a 70.

3. All I know about hotels is that the cheaper ones tend to be a good distance from the cool downtown stuff.

4. If you want to go somewhere warm, coastal, and fun, check out Savannah, GA. Great bar scene, restaurants, historic downtown district, and one of the few cities in the nation that let you carry drinks from bar to bar downtown. It's maybe five hrs away.


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By BHMBen
From The Deeper South
Dec 31, 2013
Post climb snack... <br /> <br />Photo is of Strappo Hughes, taken in the Yosemite Lodge parking lot in 1982 by Russ Walling.

Good information in THIS thread.


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By Jaime M
From Chattanooga, TN
Dec 31, 2013
Much love for the rock

The Crash Pad is a great place to stay in town. It's near a couple bars too. www.crashpadchattanooga.com/quarters/


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By Optimistic
From New Paltz
Dec 31, 2013

Thanks for the replies...

It looks like a lot of the eateries/drinkeries in BHMBen's thread are in the Market/East Main corridor...if we found an airbnb kind of deal in that area, is that a place where I'd want to leave our rental car on the street overnight?


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By Optimistic
From New Paltz
Jan 5, 2014

A friend (not a Chattanooga local) was saying to me that she had the impression that Foster Falls was not a winter area, but it looks to me like it's south-facing just like the T wall so I can't understand why that would be...is she correct?

Feel free to chime in with other local beta as well, especially on the eating and drinking aspects...


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By Blake Allen Green
Jan 5, 2014
The top of Fingers in a Light Socket

Sanford wall at Foster gets plenty of sun, as does most of the white wall and bunker areas. In the winter the trees don't have leaves, so if there is sun, it'll be down there. That being said, Areas like the white wall and Sanford wall probably keep sun the longest. Great food you should check out is Lupi's Pizza on Broad street, Mojo Burrito in St. Elmo, and Brewhaus (Sp?) accross the river. Definitely check out the crash pad or there is a Day's inn in the middle of downtown that probably has the cheapest rooms within walking distance of everything.


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By Optimistic
From New Paltz
Jan 5, 2014

Blake Allen Green wrote:
Sanford wall at Foster gets plenty of sun, as does most of the white wall and bunker areas. In the winter the trees don't have leaves, so if there is sun, it'll be down there. That being said, Areas like the white wall and Sanford wall probably keep sun the longest. Great food you should check out is Lupi's Pizza on Broad street, Mojo Burrito in St. Elmo, and Brewhaus (Sp?) accross the river. Definitely check out the crash pad or there is a Day's inn in the middle of downtown that probably has the cheapest rooms within walking distance of everything.


Thanks Blake, very helpful!


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By Thierry
From Murfreesboro, TN
Jan 6, 2014

1)
60 is fine but take the 70 if you have one of course.

2)
Cheap and good breakfast: Lillie Mae's Place, Dayton Blvd
Haven't been but there's a new place for growlers and sampling: Heaven and Ale, Cherokee Blvd
Caribbean and Veg with a cool bar in the basement: SteelPan Rastarant, Houston St

and what Ben said: mountainproject.com/v/chattanooga-sport-climbing/108128736#a>>>

3)
Southside (because there are hotels nearby) but also take a look at airbnb.com for places in Northshore.
www.downtownchattanooga.org/new/chattanooga-map

4)
Although a foot of snow would be nice in the Chattanooga area, it's pretty unlikely. I've climbed comfortably at TWall in 35-40F weather with ice on some routes when there's no wind, but plenty of sun.
Mexico Beach and the Cape San Blas area in Florida are nice, quiet, and pretty easy to get to.

Foster)
What Blake said and although not as sunny as TWall you can hide from the wind more easily there. Check out the newer areas they get a lot of sun.


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By Paige Marta
Jan 6, 2014

Welcome to the southeast! Some Twall routes are right around 100' so tie a knot in the end of your 60'.

T wall is closed for hunting occasionally so check the Prentice Cooper website for those dates before you go.

I like Lupi's in Chattanooga for beer and pizza or Crust if you go to Foster's.


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By Optimistic
From New Paltz
Jan 6, 2014

Thierry wrote:
1) 60 is fine but take the 70 if you have one of course. 2) Cheap and good breakfast: Lillie Mae's Place, Dayton Blvd Haven't been but there's a new place for growlers and sampling: Heaven and Ale, Cherokee Blvd Caribbean and Veg with a cool bar in the basement: SteelPan Rastarant, Houston St and what Ben said: mountainproject.com/v/chattanooga-sport-climbing/108128736#a>>> 3) Southside (because there are hotels nearby) but also take a look at airbnb.com for places in Northshore. www.downtownchattanooga.org/new/chattanooga-map 4) Although a foot of snow would be nice in the Chattanooga area, it's pretty unlikely. I've climbed comfortably at TWall in 35-40F weather with ice on some routes when there's no wind, but plenty of sun. Mexico Beach and the Cape San Blas area in Florida are nice, quiet, and pretty easy to get to. Foster) What Blake said and although not as sunny as TWall you can hide from the wind more easily there. Check out the newer areas they get a lot of sun.


Hi Thierry,

Was actually hoping to avoid the 70 just to save a little weight on the plane and in the pack, but both you and Paige seem to be saying a 60 can be a little close at times?

Could you say what you mean by "newer areas" at Foster? Are these the ones Blake mentioned?

Thanks for the restaurant beta...looking back at my posts, it looks like all I want to do in TN is eat, but I find trips are a lot more fun if you find the good local spots rather than wasting a bunch of money at Denny's because you don't know where to go.

Cheers,
David


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By Whipper
From Douglasville, GA
Jan 6, 2014

Not worth bringing the 70. 60 will be just fine.


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By Optimistic
From New Paltz
Jan 6, 2014

One of my buddies who's coming along on with me on this trip raised a good question: when we climb out in the Southwest, climbing right after a hard rain is a major no-no. Usually the wisdom is to wait 24h or so in places like Vegas or Indian Creek, or you risk hurting yourself and, much more importantly, the cliff. Is the same true on this Southeastern stuff? Everyone keeps using phrases like "bullet-hard" to refer to it, but it's still not granite...


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By sharyl
From Chattanooga, TN
Jan 6, 2014

By Optimistic
6 days ago
From New Paltz

Hey,
Great advice from everyone above. Here are my 2cents too. Feel free to PM me if you think of more questions. I've been in chatt for 9 yrs and just started climbing 2 yrs ago, so happy to help if I can!
I have never heard about waiting to climb 24hrs after rain for reasons other than waiting for the rock to dry out. I'll check with some of my more experienced climbing partners too.

1) I'd vote for the 60m if you don't want to pack both.

2) There are lots a great places to eat...the terminal brewery (very close to the crash pad) is great. Tremont Tavern. Las margaritas (tortilla soup!). Honest pint has good food/pub atmosphere but can be smoky.

3. Downtown, south side, north shore will be the most centrally located. There is also a free electric shuttle that runs between the north shore and aquarium(downtown) and the choo choo(south side)

4) Look at dauphin island Alabama. It will be mardi gras season down there so it may be difficult to get hotels in the bigger towns when the parades are running. There are vacation rentals and a camp ground on the island. It's pretty low key laid back place.

5) Obed is beautiful. I've only been there once though so I don't have much beta. There is a great guidebook on the obed though & there are so many different crags out there it would definitely be worth $. The crash pad has a lot of the local guidebooks in their living room and is run by local climbers.

Cheers,
Sharyl


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By Thierry
From Murfreesboro, TN
Jan 7, 2014

60 meters is fine.

By newer areas at Foster, I mean in the new guidebooks or past the 'Red Light District'.
For MountainProject, it's anything that's not on the 'Main Wall'.
In the guidebooks I have, what MP calls the 'Main Wall' is divided into sections like Sanford, White, etc.
mountainproject.com/v/foster-falls/105883248

I've not heard that rain affects the sandstone at Foster, TWall in the same way as in the Southwest.


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By Optimistic
From New Paltz
Jan 7, 2014

Thanks guys...

A little bit off-topic, but: The sandstone of the Southeast seems different (ie, stronger) than the Southwest sandstone...this is what people are saying here about TN, and that was my impression at the Red River Gorge also. Does anyone know, geochemically speaking, what the difference is? More iron? Metamorphic sandstone in the east?


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By Jonathan Petsch
From Chattanooga, TN
Jan 7, 2014

Optimistic wrote:
Does anyone know, geochemically speaking, what the difference is? More iron? Metamorphic sandstone in the east?


The sandstone in the southwest has a combination of calcium carbonate and iron oxide cement (what holds the grains of sand together). Both of these are relatively soluble and weaken when wet. Southeastern rock, such as the Pennsylvanian Warren Point Sandstone you'll be climbing here, has a silica (quartz) cement, which is not water soluble and is very strong.

No metamorphic sandstone here in Chattanooga, because if it was, then it wouldn't be called sandstone! Linville gorge in NC is an example "metamorphosed sandstone", which is called quartzite.

These people have covered Chattanooga pretty well, but if you need anything else just ask me.

You don't need a 70 for the places you mentioned visiting, just tie a knot in the end of your rope at TWall

In february, at Obed, you may want to go to South Clear Creek. Lily stays in the shade. South clear gets a lot of sun. Plenty of 9s, 10s, and 11s, at south clear.

Stay at the crash pad. you'll be within walking distance to a bunch of good places.

Too many food places to list on here, just ask when you get to the Crash Pad


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By Optimistic
From New Paltz
Jan 7, 2014

Jonathan Petsch wrote:
The sandstone in the southeast has a combination of calcium carbonate and iron oxide cement (what holds the grains of sand together). Both of these are relatively soluble and weaken when wet. Southeastern rock, such as the Pennsylvanian Warren Point Sandstone you'll be climbing here, has a silica (quartz) cement, which is not water soluble and is very strong. No metamorphic sandstone here in Chattanooga, because if it was, then it wouldn't be called sandstone! Linville gorge in NC is an example "metamorphosed sandstone", which is called quartzite. These people have covered Chattanooga pretty well, but if you need anything else just ask me. You don't need a 70 for the places you mentioned visiting, just tie a knot in the end of your rope at TWall In february, at Obed, you may want to go to South Clear Creek. Lily stays in the shade. South clear gets a lot of sun. Plenty of 9s, 10s, and 11s, at south clear. Stay at the crash pad. you'll be within walking distance to a bunch of good places. Too many food places to list on here, just ask when you get to the Crash Pad


Thanks Jonathan. Question, in your first sentence, when you said "southeast" did you mean "southwest"?


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By Jonathan Petsch
From Chattanooga, TN
Jan 7, 2014

Yes, sorry. It is fixed.


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By mike olsen
From Clarksville, TN
Jan 22, 2014
:)

T-Wall is the best in winter. You will be able to climb if the weather is 35ish or above. Don't let the cold snap get you down. There's sure to be plenty of good days while you're here. The T-Wall is exposed to the sun, Foster's is in a deep canyon and very shady, same can be said for Sunset. There's enough to keep you happy at t-wall for a long, long time. Enjoy and welcome to TN.


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By Blake Cash
Jan 22, 2014

Way more cold weather options than T-Wal. Castle Rock is amazing. Laurel Falls is south facing and impeccable rock (better than T-Wall). Plenty of Fosters gets sun too. Options in the Canyon also get all day sun.


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By Optimistic
From New Paltz
Jan 22, 2014

Thanks for the positive vibes guys! Maybe you were reading my mind today as I looked at the Chat forecast (14 degrees or whatever) and then was driving to work with the thermometer reading 3 degrees?

Hoping Mike is right about the 35 degree thing...we may well get to test out that assertion!

Time will tell. May be using more of the brewery beta than the climbing beta! Any good climbing gyms in town? :)


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By Blake Cash
Jan 23, 2014

High Point Climbing and Fitness just opened last month. Just finishing up the main bouldering room. Great facility, full service as well.

Also think about Tieranny Wall at the Obed as a cold weather option. It will be perfect there as well.


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By Optimistic
From New Paltz
Feb 13, 2014

Hi all,

We (the OP and pals) got back from our Chat trip a few days ago, just a few observations...
-The T wall really is an amazing place, we're all psyched to go back!
-In the end we brought our 70's instead of our 60's and were glad that we did...while there wasn't a case where we would have been shut down from doing a climb by having a 60, there were numerous times where we would have been quite close to the end of a 60 and were glad not to have to think about that. Also, there were several times when we traversed to pick up an anchor at the top of an adjacent climb to toprope it, and that would have been tight/impossible for some of the routes. There was never a time when we found the extra rope annoying. YMMV.
-We'd all strenuously disagree with the idea that Aretha Frankenstein's is overrated...that place rules!
-We rented an airbnb in North Chat and that worked out super well.
-Mellow Mushroom (downtown)makes some awesome pizza!
-Lastly, EVERYONE we met in Chat and in Nashville was just incredibly nice. As cynical New Yorkers, we kept waiting to figure out what their angle was, but nope, they're just really nice folks.

Cheers,
David


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By Thierry
From Murfreesboro, TN
Feb 13, 2014

Thanks for observations. Glad you had a good time.
Saw your post about iron deposits. I've seen amazing iron pipes (some round and some hexagonal, all natural) in the sandstone cliffs of Big South Fork (in TN). Those iron crimpers are bomber.

Y'all come back now, y'hear!


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