What would be a better area for a beginning trad leader? I've been told that T-wall is no place to do your first trad lead. Looking to start learning to place gear and start trading leads w/my climbing partner. I lead sport up to 5.11b, been cleaning gear for the past 3 years I have a good idea of what a and bad placement look like.

I did my first trad lead at T wall. There are some moderate routes there that are great for learning. I think my first route on lead was Jaywalker.

I would second T wall. As a new leader I feel pretty comfortable there, especially in the cracks as the protection is abundant and straightforward, also there are several routes in the 5.7/8 range that are quite fun. Two bolt top anchors are nice too.

T-Wall

If anything, Sandrock is a redneck pile...and the T-Wall is gorgeous. Sunny, great rock, and not packed with retards (at least during the week)...make this place way better than Sandrock IMO.

I've not been to Sandrock, but have heard more negative things about it than about any other southern crag. T-wall definitely has a scattering of good 5.7s for the beginning trad leader, however. Go to T-wall. One of the best crags in the nation.

+1 for Twall.

And instead of Sandrock, next time you are in that area go to Jamestown. Yum Yum Tree is a great 5.7 trad lead and no lines like Sandrock.

I feel like T-wall takes gear better than Sand Rock also. The rock at Sand Rock is often conglomerated and takes more effort to find placements, at t-wall you can pretty much plug and chug as the cracks are much smoother inside. Most of the easier cracks tend to eat gear.

I would add.
SCREAMING LOUDY.
Do not go to SandRock.
unless you like to camp next to used comdoms.Walk over broken bottles like a gravel path. and stare at racial slurs and graffiti all day.
The place is a TURD. It is loved by few and hated by many.
There are much better crags in AL. GA. and TN.
I personally have never been to TWall. but they say it is the jam.
Someone pass the toast.
Your choice should be clear.
T Wall

T-Wall is the place to do your first trad lead! Plenty of classic, well-protected climbs in the 5.7 - 5.8 range.

Also, on average the folks you'll run into at T-Wall will have more knowledge about climbing on gear. So friends you make there will be able to teach you much more.

T-Wall. Absolutely. 100%.

I think it depends--T wall is crack climbing. If you have a gym/sport background you may feel more comfortable with first leads at low grade juggy stuff at sandrock such as Standard Route or Knob Wall. As I recall you can protect Knob with just slung chickenheads. Sandrock is certainly an unaesthetic experience compared to T-wall I must agree.

Steele is a nice location for the beginning leader as well....an Alabama option.

But yes, The TWall over SR.

That's a bummer to hear these things about Sand Rock. I know there is an effort underway, led by an affluent climber turned benefactor, to add a lot of real estate to Sand Rock complete with mountain biking trails and basically clean the place up. His vision is to make it the premier destination in the South. I don't know how much the "turd" can be polished, but knowing this guy, it will be polished as much as possible.

BTW, whoever told you T-Wall was no place for a first trad lead doesn't know whay they are talking about, so you should stop seeking their advice.

Thanks everyone for all the feedback. I live in South Florida, and I've been to Sandrock. Compared to where I live Sandrock is the cat's ass. It definitely has a long way to go when you compare it to...well....just about everywhere else. When you compare it to the gyms I have to climb at it's great.

I think I'm gonna go to T-wall. How's the weather in early March? As long as it doesn't rain me and my friends are there.

TWall. There is a 5.5, some short 5.7s

March is fine. People climb there even now in January.

Sandrock is not a great place for any first experience. Unfortunately, a lot of people have trashed it. :(

T-Wall!

Las Margaritas or Taco Bell?

Yeah....it's like that.

Yes, I was talking about Clay, and I haven't spoken to him since last April. At the time, the county was being a PITA, so maybe things have changed, which would be a serious bummer.

T-Wall. There are plenty of great leads there, the rock is harder and placements less likely to flare or grind out. Ask for some local advice as to which climbs (depends on your grade and gear placements) but there are many to choose from at lower and moderate grades.

Not like you need more input now, but...T Wall for sure. Lots of good moderates with relatively straightforward gear for the budding trad leader, and tons of harder stuff to keep you busy as you move through the grades. It's a winter paradise for the 5.10/5.11 leader.

Sandrock has all the redneck downsides, but it does have some good sport climbing and excellent bouldering. Not a ton of gear routes there, and clogged with bubbas and toproping gangbang parties/classes...but I still love it because it was the first place I went climbing, and many other firsts for me. Like first time I saw a redneck pinned under a flipped 4-wheeler (without spilling the Coors Light!), first place I saw a rotteweiler chase a goat up what was probably 5.6, first place I saw of-age people get tickets for alcohol...some climbing firsts too.