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Good jams to a angry mantel. Pro is at one's feet for the mantel, making it a spicy lead. Approach from above, nothing to be gained by scrambling around the base. Once on top, walk across the top to the west and then down a few feet to a ledge.
Mid way down on the east side is a nice ledge for abusing the climber by throwing stones or taking pictures.
Up and right of the route are a pair of bolts. For toproping, it is useful to have a long static line to get the anchor over the edge (roughly 25 feet away). Alternatively, a gear anchor can be set at the top of the climb.
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 7, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
I once fell off the mantel while leading the route. While I don't recommend falling, the plummet is actually quite clean. I did, however, have a helmet, which was nice because I landed upside down, almost clocking my belayer. Overall, the fall amounted to about 15-20 ft. Spicy, indeed. Use discretion, know your limits, and remember that climbers in the 60s and 70s were friggin studs. Just because they led this thing with tennies and chocks doesn't mean that you can style it with cams and sticky rubber. That being said, T-crack might be my favorite lead in the area.
|By Richard Shore|
May 20, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
I finally led this rig yesterday, and it is now my favorite in SB. I will do it over and over again. 2X cams from 0.5-2 will pretty much stitch this baby up. Smaller pieces for your belayer's anchor at the base - I used pink, red, and brown tricams.